Chef notes
I am a huge fan of meatballs no matter what country they come from. The best ones I had in Mexico were at the Mercado Juan Sabines in Tuxtla Gutiérrez in the state of Chiapas. It was a cool afternoon just before Christmas and I had driven into Chiapas from Oaxaca. I was planning to eat only the typical foods from the region. When I saw albóndigas, I couldn't resist; I had to have them. They were brothy, spicy and smoky from chile chipotle. I was so incredibly happy. Because I love them so much, I am also super critical of bad balls. I have made thousands of meatballs in my life and one of the most important things that I have learned over the years is you need to add fat and moisture to the ground meat. I like using dairy because it adds both moisture and milkfat, which also tenderizes the meat. I also add breadcrumbs to hold on to the moisture and fat as the meatballs cook and prevent them from getting tough and dry (and no one wants tough, dry balls).
Ingredients
- 10 large Roma tomatoes (2 pounds), cored
- 2-5 canned chipotle peppers in adobo sauce, plus 2 tablespoons adobo sauce
- sea salt
- 1 cup panko or fresh breadcrumbs
- 1/3 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro, plus more for serving
- 1/2 cup crumbled queso fresco, plus more for serving
- 1/2 large white onion, grated on the large holes of a box grater, divided
- 5 cloves garlic, finely grated, divided
- 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 3/4 teaspoon cumin seeds
- 1 cup crema or sour cream
- 1 pound ground beef (20% fat)
- 1 pound ground pork (20% fat, if possible)
- 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for shaping
- 1 teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican
- 1½ cups homemade chicken stock or store-bought low-sodium chicken broth
- corn tortillas, arroz rojo and frijoles de olla, for serving
Preparation
1.Line a large skillet with a sheet of foil and heat the pan over medium-high (the foil prevents the tomatoes from burning and sticking to the bottom of the skillet and will keep the skillet clean as you roast them). Add the tomatoes and cook, turning occasionally, until charred on all sides, for about 16 minutes.
2.Transfer the tomatoes to a blender. Add the chipotle peppers (start with two), adobo sauce and 1½ teaspoons salt, and puree on medium-low speed until almost smooth. Don't be tempted to increase the speed or you will get an airy, smoothie consistency; it's better to have a chunky salsa than a smoothie! Taste, and if you want the salsa hotter, add more chipotles and puree to combine. Set the salsa aside until ready to use.
3.In a small bowl, whisk together the panko, cilantro, queso, 1/4 cup onion, half of the garlic, 1½ teaspoons salt, black pepper and cumin until combined. Stir in the crema and set aside.
4.Add the beef and pork to a large bowl. Using two forks, begin "pulling" the ground meat apart as if you were shredding pulled pork, breaking up the clumps and bringing the two meats together without compacting the meat into a dense mass. Continue to pull the meat apart until thoroughly mixed and no clumps of beef or pork remain. Pour the crema mixture into the "pulled" meat and, using the same technique, mix until all of the ingredients are completely and evenly incorporated.
5.Lightly oil your hands. Working with one at a time, scoop out portions of the meat mixture with a 1/4-cup measuring cup or very large ice cream scoop. Roll the meat mixture gently between your hands into balls and arrange them on a sheet pan.
6.In a large nonstick skillet over medium-high, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil. Add half of the meatballs and cook, using tongs or a fork to turn and roll them occasionally, until browned on all sides, for about 5 minutes. They will not be cooked through, just browned on the outside. Return the meatballs to the sheet pan and repeat with the remaining meatballs. Set aside until ready to add to the sauce.
7.In the same skillet, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil and cook the remaining onion, garlic and oregano, stirring frequently and scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan, until beginning to brown, for 3 to 5 minutes. Add the stock, reserved salsa and meatballs with any accumulated juices. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until the meatballs are cooked through, for 30 to 40 minutes. Taste and season with more salt if desired.
8.Serve hot with warm corn tortillas, arroz rojo and frijoles de olla, and topped with crumbled queso fresco and chopped cilantro.
