Your Lip Balm Could Be Making Your Lips More Chapped — Derms Explain Why

Plus, they provide their recommendations for more hydrated lips.
Kara Birnbaum / TODAY

Regardless of the season, we continuously find ourselves reaching for our most hydrating skin care products to keep our skin in optimal health. But with winter nearing, the search for these types of products grows exponentially to help beat the dryness that comes with the colder months — and that includes lip balm.

If you’ve found yourself needing more and more balm to soothe chapped lips, we have some news: the one you’re using might actually be doing more harm than good.

To learn more, we consulted three experts — associate clinical professor of dermatology Dr. Mona Gohara and board-certified dermatologists Dr. Brendan Camp and Dr. David Kim — to find out why certain lip balms dry out your lips and which ones you should be reaching for instead. 

Keep reading to have all your lip balm questions answered and shop expert- and editor-approved picks.

Our top picks

Best lip balms for dry lips

What causes chapped lips?

There are several reasons why your lips might be feeling dry and irritated, especially at this time of the year. As you may already know, the cold weather can have an effect on your pout, as your lips are very thin-skinned, so they're much more likely to dry out, Gohara says.

Everyday factors like the enzymes in saliva, yeast or bacteria or certain ingredients in skin care products or food, can also cause irritation, Camp explained.

It also might be a matter of not giving them enough attention. "A lot of people don't give love to their lips," Gohara says. "They'll moisturize their face, but they're not moisturizing their lips."

Though, if you are giving them plenty of love, but find that they're ending up chapped and dry not long after you apply a balm, it could be because you're using what Gohara calls the "wrong balm."

Why do some balms make your lips chapped?

So what exactly does the “wrong balm” mean? “Here’s the rule: Anything that makes your lips tingle, cold, soothes with that menthol-y [feel], that’s bad news bears because it means that there’s an ingredient in there that is a potential irritant,” Dr. Gohara says.

So while it might feel good right when you initially apply, in the long run, it could leave your lips feeling more dry and irritated. That’s why she suggests avoiding any lip balms with ingredients like camphor, menthol or alcohol.

Fragrances, flavoring agents and dyes can also potentially cause allergic contact dermatitis, Dr. Camp notes. “If someone develops a sensitivity to an ingredient in a lip balm it can cause the lips to become dry, cracked, red, scaly and itchy.”

Lip balm ingredients to look for

So now that you're well-versed on what you should avoid, the question remains: How do you choose a lip balm that's actually going to help your lips, instead of hurting them?

To maximize hydration, you want to look for ingredients that will help trap water in the skin while keeping it moisturized for a long period of time, Camp says. "Ingredients like beeswax, olive oil, castor oil, coconut oil and shea butter are often used for this purpose." Kim also notes that "petroleum...and squalane are great ingredients" for treating dry lips.

But for the ideal formula, Gohara says that a combination of humectants (like hyaluronic acid and glycerin), which draw moisture into the skin as well as occlusives (such as shea butter and mineral oil), which work to lock the moisture in.

Both Camp and Kim also recommend getting a formula with SPF to help protect the area from the sun.

The best lip balms for dry lips, according to dermatologists

Vaseline Lip Therapy Original Lip Balm

Both Kim and Gohara suggested Vaseline's lip balm. The non-greasy formula is designed to lock in moisture to soothe dry lips and prevent them from getting chapped later on.

"A lot of lip balms feel nice initially, but dry out your lips soon after," Kim says. "Vaseline Lip Therapy keeps your lips occluded so it’s hydrated and moisturized and allows your lips to heal." 

Aquaphor Healing Ointment

“This ointment has many uses, aside from being a lip balm,” Camp says. “It can be used on dry, cracked skin, rough cuticles and cuts and scrapes. It also contains shea butter and vitamin E.”

Malin + Goetz Lip Moisturizer

Camp says that this lip moisturizer from Malin + Goetz is "smooth" and "hydrating" and is designed to keep your lips nourished for hours.

EltaMD UV SPF Lip Balm Sunscreen

"This lip balm offers SPF 36 protection and contains vitamins C and E, antioxidants along with glycerin to keep lips protected and soft," Camp says.

The best lip balms for dry lips, according to editors

Dr. Bronner's Organic Lip Balm Peppermint

When the weather is extremely cold, protect your lips with this beeswax-infused lip balm. Senior editor Jess Bender loves this one.

eos Sweet Mint Plant-Based Lip Salve

“I’ve used (and lost) dozens of lip balms in my days, with most making my lips more chapped than they were prior. Dr. Bronner’s is probably the first that has actually delivered on its promise of relieving sore, peeling lips. It utilizes various oils (hemp, avocaco, jojoba) that moisturize, plus it has a soothing peppermint aroma!”

One word to describe this lip balm is texture. And I [San Miguel] don’t mean that it’s tough or gritty — it’s the complete opposite. When I first dipped into eos’s Plant-Based Lip Salve, I instantly loved how creamy it was. It transferred beautifully to my lips, gliding on so, so smooth.

The creaminess makes sense, though, since it has olive squalane, sustainable shea butter and rich cocoa butter as its core ingredients. It’s hard to believe they’re all natural, too — even the packaging is recyclable and reusable!

Phyto-Glow Lip Balm

The best way to describe Naturium's Phyto-Glow Lip Balm? It's all in the name: The finish is glow-y and the formula is plush, so I don't have to worry about applying a gloss on top when I [San Miguel] have this product on hand.

I first saw it on TikTok, then the Target aisles and was instantly drawn to the glowing results. While the balm is highly moisturizing, the shine is worth noting.

Balm Dotcom Lip Balm

With over nine scents and shades to choose from, production associate Audrey Ekman says she nearly owns them all. "It’s that good," she boasts. "Whether I’m pairing it with a liner or wearing it solo, this always leaves my lips feeling moisturized and looking plump and glossy."

Courtesy Audrey Ekman

Laneige Lip Glowy Balm

While the Lip Sleeping Mask has a cult-like following, Laneige’s lip balm doesn’t get the credit it truly deserves. Production coordinator Camryn Privette loves this product because of the soothing ingredients (murumuru and shea butter) and how it provides a radiant glow and peak hydration.

Lip Butter Balm

Aside from delivering hydration, this lip balm comes in different shades — a great alternative if you want to give your lipsticks a break.

“This TikTok-viral lip balm has quickly become one of my favorites to use. It’s not only hydrating, but also moisturizing and leaves your lips feeling super soft and smooth. It’s an investment but I think it’s worth it. I keep (at least) one on me at all times,” shares Stewart.

Courtesy Anita Chomenko

The Lip Balm Multi-Ceramide

Shigo says this lip balm is easy to use and has a nice scent. "I have been wearing this in the cold and it really holds up and stops my lips from cracking and keeps them moisturized even on super cold days. You don't need to use a ton of it to keep your lips moisturized," says Shigo.

It delivers a fresh sensation and meant to soothe chapped lips at instant glide.

The Outset Lip Oasis Glossy Treatment

This viral lip treatment from Scarlett Johansson's beauty brand, The Outset, was completely sold out for months after it first launched, but since then, the company has expanded and added colors along with the classic gloss. I find the formula to be one of the most hydrating lip products that I've tried — I apply it once in the morning and my lips feel hydrated for most of the day. It has a glossy finish, so it's perfect for putting on top of a lip stain or wearing on its own.

Frequently Asked Questions

According to Dr. Gohara, if you're using the right type of lip balm, you'll likely find that you can use it multiple times per day with no repercussions (plus, your lips should end up feeling ultra-hydrated). Though, a general rule to follow is to apply a balm is once in the morning and once again before bed, Dr. Camp notes.

"There is no hard and fast rule," adds Dr. Kim. "It's really whenever your lips feel dry. Often times 2-3x is sufficient."

In short: Yes! SPF is just as important on the lips as it is for the skin. "Lips are susceptible to UV damage and people get skin cancers on the lips, so SPF is essential," Dr. Kim explains.

Lip balm comes in different variations, including healing formulas, tinted, ones with SPF, to name a few. All of which are up to personal preference, suggests Dr. Kim, so choose the one that best accommodates your pout.

SPF formulas are meant to protect the lips from harmful UV rays. Tinted lip balms are moisturizing still, but add a light to high pigmented tint on the lips. Healing lip balms can soothe dryness and treat cracked lips.

Our experts recommended sticking to humectants and occlusives in your lip balms. But to prevent irritation and/or more dryness, Dr. Kim suggests "avoiding artificial colors and fragrance" in particular.

It is important to note that everyone's skin reacts differently and preferences vary, so be sure to keep a close eye at a product's ingredient list before purchasing.

How we chose

We leaned on the expertise of board-certified dermatologists and got their recommendations on the best ingredients and lip balms to soothe dry, chapped lips. We also tapped into the knowledge of Shop TODAY editors, asking them to share the tried-and-true products they use to keep their pouts soft and supple on a daily basis.

Meet our experts

At Shop TODAY, our reporters interview a range of qualified sources and experts to capture a wide scope of perspectives on a given topic. We also ensure that all expert guidance and recommendations are provided independently and without any undisclosed financial conflicts of interest.

  • Dr. Mona Gohara, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Dermatology Physicians of Connecticut in Hamden. She is an associate clinical professor of dermatology at the Yale School of Medicine and vice president of the Women’s Dermatologic Society.
  • Dr. Brendan Camp, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology in New York. He is double board-certified in dermatology and dermatopathology.
  • Dr. David Kim, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Idriss Dermatologist in New York City. He is also a fellowship-trained cosmetic dermatologist.