Whether you're prone to post-breakout marks or are dealing with spots left behind after not using enough sunscreen (reapply, reapply, reapply!), it can be disheartening to go through the trial and error process of finding something that actually works for dark spots.
To understand the culprit behind the splotchiness, we went to an expert to find out what causes dark spots, and more importantly, how to fix them.
What are dark spots? | What to look for in products | When to use them | Products to help | How we chose | Meet the expert
What are dark spots?
“Dark spots are often caused by ultraviolet light, which stimulates melanocytes to produce melanin — what creates color, or pigment, in our skin,” says Dr. Jordan Carqueville, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of the Derm Institute of Chicago. “More melanin production ultimately creates things like freckles, sun spots or melasma.”
There are in-office treatments like chemical peels and lasers for treating hyperpigmentation, but they aren’t always in the budget. The good news is, there are a variety of affordable, over-the-counter products that address uneven skin tone, and they can be used year-round to prevent and treat dark spots.
How to choose a dark spot corrector
Carqueville calls out five ingredients that you should be looking for in spot lightening products:
- Hydroquinone, azelaic acid and kojic acid. Carqueville says these ingredients block the enzyme that makes pigment.
- Vitamin C. This not only brightens the skin but it's also an antioxidant, "so it's preventative and can be used when you're in the sun."
- Retinol. "It will thin the stratum corneum and thereby thin pigment and slough off extra layers of darker spots," she says.
Where do you put dark spot correctors in your skin care routine?
In the morning, Carqueville recommends this order for your skin care routine:
- Cleanse.
- Apply dark spot-correcting product containing vitamin C, azelaic acid or kojic acid.
- Moisturize.
- Sunscreen.
- Makeup.
The evening routine is the same, except the active ingredients in your evening routine should be hydroquinone or retinol, or both on an alternating basis. “I like to recommend people alternate retinol and hydroquinone every other day so they can be absorbed separately," Carqueville notes.
Products to help with dark spots
Neutrogena Stubborn Marks PM Treatment
Size: 1 fl oz | Key ingredients: Retinol, vitamin C, benzoyl peroxide, glycerin, hyaluronic acid
This retinol-based product does all the work while you sleep — and you may even be able to skip the concealer in the morning. While it’s mostly used to correct acne scarring, the brand says it also improves skin clarity and evens tone in just seven days.
Cerave Skin Renewing Vitamin C Serum
Size: 1 oz | Key ingredients: Vitamin C, glycerin, vitamin b5, ceramides, hyaluronic acid
Protect against environmental damage all year round with this skin brightener, which contains 10% vitamin C, hydrating hyaluronic acid and ceramides. Users report more than just an improvement in skin tone — they say this helps shrink pores and decrease redness as well.
Hyper! Hyper Even Brightening Dark Spot Vitamin C Serum
Size: 0.5 oz | Key ingredients: Vitamin C, vitamin E, kojic acid, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, salicylic acid, aloe vera
Perfect for layering under moisturizer, this serum has 15% vitamin C and vitamin E along with kojic acid, which all work together to lighten age spots and acne scars. Users report that it not only fights hyperpigmentation but it also clears breakouts and improves texture.
Topicals Faded Brightening & Clearing Serum
Size: 1.7 oz | Key ingredients: Tranexamic acid, niacinamide, azelaic acid, glycerin, shea butter, licorice root extract, squalane
Packed with dream team ingredients including azelaic acid, niacinamide and tranexamic acid, this gel-like serum works to brighten skin and fade pesky blemishes. Reviewers love that it reduces hyperpigmentation, but some note that it has an unpleasant odor so it would be best used at night.
Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
Size: 1 fl oz | Key ingredients: Azelaic acid, salicylic acid, licorice root extract, glycerin
As you probably guessed by the name, azelaic acid is the main ingredient that helps to correct uneven skin tone and fight acne. Reviewers rave about this product’s effectiveness for treating everything from scars to rosacea.
Peter Thomas Roth Pro Strength Niacinamide Discoloration Treatment
Size: 1.7 oz | Key ingredients: Niacinamide, kojic acid, tranexamic acid, shea butter, squalane
Say goodbye to unsightly blotches and patchiness. This splurge (that's currently available for half-off!) is chock full of helpful ingredients — kojic acid, niacinamide and tranexamic acid — that work in conjunction to brighten the skin.
Ursa Major Brighten Up Vitamin C Serum
Size: 1 oz | Key ingredients: Vitamin C, aloe vera, glycerin, shea butter, rosemary leaf extract
This multitasking superstar hydrates and brightens dull skin, and balances tone and texture. Unlike with some other vitamin C serums, reviewers say this formula smells great and it’s not sticky, so it pairs well with the rest of your skin care regimen.
How we chose
We searched for products that contain the active ingredients Carqueville called out and are top-rated across the internet.
Meet our expert
- Dr. Jordan Carqueville, MD, is a triple board-certified dermatologist, dermopathologist and fellowship-trained Mohs micrographic surgeon. She also founded The Derm Institute of Chicago and serves as its medical doctor.
