What is it? | Products to try | Tips for using kojic acid | Meet the experts
Dealing with skin issues like hyperpigmentation and discoloration can sometimes feel like a losing battle if you don’t know how to search for the right treatment. While there are a plethora of skin care products on the market that claim to help with dark spots, the ultimate key to success is knowing which ingredients to look for that actually target these concerns.
Kojic acid is one of those ingredients. You’ve probably never heard of it before. (That’s okay, neither did we before this.) So to shine some light on what it does, as well as get some tips on how best to use it, Shop TODAY spoke to board-certified dermatologists Dr. Michele Farber and Dr. Robert Anolik for their expert guidance.
What is kojic acid?
“Kojic acid works to inhibit tyrosinase,” Farber explains. Tyrosinase is the enzyme that produces melanin in the skin. “Even if it’s considered in the acid category, it doesn’t work the same as your typical AHAs or BHAs.”
Because kojic acid is meant to keep melanin from performing, Farber and Anolik both agree that it is an effective ingredient that could be helpful for treating hyperpigmentation or discoloration.
Farber adds that other benefits of using kojic acid can include aiding with free radical production and brightening skin, calling it a “gentle, well-tolerated ingredient.”
Skin lightening and managing dark spots are a concern Farber says dermatologists see a lot. “It sometimes requires a combination of ingredients and even in-office procedures, but kojic acid is a really nice item to have in the regimen because it works well,” she tells us.
Products with kojic acid to try
Koji White Kojic Acid Skin Brightening Soap
- Gentle on skin
- Pleasant, citrus scent
- Some say it runs out quickly
Size: 2.82 oz per bar | Key ingredients: Kojic acid, tea tree oil, hyaluronic acid, coconut oil, glycerin
Made with hyaluronic acid and coconut oil, this bar soap is formulated to help brighten, hydrate and nourish your skin. It can be used on both face and body and each box comes with two bars, perfect for leaving one in the shower and one at the sink. Reviewers recommend letting the cleanser sit on your skin for one to two minutes before rinsing to let it penetrate.
Urban Skin Rx Even Tone Cleansing Bar
- Travel-friendly
- May be too harsh to use as a daily cleanser
Size: 2 oz | Key ingredients: Kojic acid, glycerin, witch hazel, azelaic acid, niacinamide, licorice extract
Target discoloration right at the beginning of your skin care routine with this cleansing bar that is made with kojic acid, niacinamide and azelaic acid. With nearly 5,000 verified five-star ratings on Amazon, one reviewer said it helped remove their dark spots and gave their skin a “healthy glow.”
Naturium Tranexamic Topical Acid 5%
- Lightweight
- No harsh smell
- Not the best for melasma
Size: 1 fl oz | Key ingredients: Kojic acid, tranexamic acid, niacinamide, licorice root extract, glycerin, panthenol, hyaluronic acid
In addition to tranexamic acid and kojic acid, this serum is also made with licorice root (no, not the candy!). According to the brand, it is "optimized to work with the physiological process of the skin." Reviewers love how well it's worked for correcting their dark spots and hyperpigmentation, one reviewer said their skin "looks the best it has in a long time."
La Roche-Posay Glycolic B5
- Start to see results in just a few weeks
- Some say it develops an unsavory fragrance
Size: 1 fl oz | Key ingredients: Kojic acid, tranexamic acid, glycolic acid
Farber also recommends this Glycolic B5 serum from La Roche-Posay. She likes products with these ingredients because they don’t contain hydroquinone, an ingredient that she says “can be a great lightener” but can cause some concerns after use.
Topicals Faded Brightening & Clearing Serum
- A little goes a long way
- Good for spot treating
- Smell is not great
Size: 1.7 oz | Key ingredients: Kojic acid, glycerin, niacinamide, tranexamic acid, shea butter, jojoba seed oil, licorice root extract, squalane
This specific serum from Topicals has gone viral several times over the past few years. On TikTok, the hashtag #topicalsfadedserum has garnered 500 posts and hundreds of thousands of likes and views. While many reviewers admit the smell isn't the best, they continue to use it for its efficiency and effectiveness.
SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense
- Good for post-acne marks
- Thicker serum
Size: 1 fl oz | Key ingredients: Kojic acid, tranexamic acid, niacinamide
Farber likes this serum from SkinCeuticals that has both kojic acid and tranexamic acid. “That can be helpful for dark marks,” she says. According to a 12-week clinical study conducted by the brand, 81% of respondents saw a difference in post-acne marks after using this serum.
Tips for using products with kojic acid
Adding a new product to your skin care regimen can be exciting, but before you dive in headfirst, be sure to keep these tips in mind.
- Do a patch test. If you have sensitive skin or are prone to eczema breakouts, Farber recommends doing a patch test for most products, including ones containing kojic acid. “It’s generally tolerated by most skin types, but anybody could get irritated by it,” she says.
- Don’t use any other irritating products. Be mindful of the other products you’re using at the same time as kojic acid, Farber advises. Try not to use exfoliants or drying ingredients, especially when you use kojic acid for the first time.
- If you have lightened skin conditions, don’t use it. Anolik recommends those with loss of pigment like lightened scars or vitiligo avoid using products with kojic acid because of the negative effect in hypopigmentation (a low amount of melanin in the skin). Since kojic acid is meant to keep melanin from forming, you won’t have to use it on areas that are already lightened.
- Sunscreen, sunscreen, sunscreen. No matter what you’re using, dermatologists stress the importance of regularly applying sunscreen. The same rules apply when using kojic acid. Anolik recommends using sunscreen daily “because sun can drive the pigment production process.”
- Be patient! We all want to see life-changing results overnight, but that’s just not how things work. Farber recommends waiting at least a month to look for results, but don’t be surprised if it takes up to three months to see a difference. “Even if it’s inhibiting the tyrosinase enzyme, you need some time, especially for any topicals to work,” she added.
Meet the experts
- Dr. Michele Farber, MD, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist who practices with Schweiger Dermatology Group in Philadelphia. Her areas of expertise include skin cancer and general, cosmetic and procedural dermatology. She has previously spoken with Shop TODAY about fall skin care essentials.
- Dr. Robert Anolik, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and a fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology. He specializes in cosmetic dermatology and laser skin surgery. He has previously spoken with Shop TODAY about retinol serums, winter skin care products and colloidal oatmeal.
