Chef notes

Ed was the executive chef at the Rooster. He's my man. He's a major part of what we do. He's put Rooster on fire. His mix tape dinners are legendary: He creates dinners based on rap and R&B music, with Nas, Biggie, Missy Elliott and Wu Tang in mind. It's so beautiful; diners are invited to eat a soulful story on a plate. And of course, when Raekwon the Chef, of the Wu Tang Clan, came and performed, he and Ed tore it up.

When I think about a Southern dish like shrimp and grits, I'm reminded of the mood that jazz and church give me, and of how universal these feelings are. These dishes are eaten all over the world, just like hip-hop is heard all over the world. Ed's parents grew up in the South, so he can teach us about shrimp and grits, about gumbo. Food like this points to a culture, to art, to music. I didn't grow up in America, so when I listen to Ed, I'm learning not only from a chef's point of view. I'll say, "Ed, what do you remember about eating at home?" Then I sit back, taste and listen.

Technique tip: When the meat at the base of the crevice of the shrimp turns from translucent to opaque, the shrimp is done.

Swap option: If you don't eat pork, try using a seasoned chicken sausage instead of chorizo.

Ingredients

Grits

2 cups water
1 cup heavy cream
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter

1 cup stone-ground grits
4 ounces white cheddar cheese, shredded
kosher salt

Gumbo Sauce and Shrimp

3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/4 cup finely diced celery
1/4 cup finely diced red onion
1/4 cup finely diced red bell pepper
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 ounces ground chorizo

1 (14-ounce) can crushed tomatoes
8 ounces finely diced fresh okra
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 cups fish stock
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
12 large shrimp, tail on, peeled and deveined

Preparation

For the grits:

Combine the water, cream and butter into a medium saucepan set over medium-high heat. Once the liquid comes to a simmer, add the grits and whisk to combine. Decrease the heat to low and cook, stirring frequently, until the grits are tender and creamy, 20 to 25 minutes.

Remove from the heat and stir in the cheese until melted. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt as desired.

For the gumbo sauce and shrimp:

Heat the vegetable oil in a large saucepan or Dutch oven and set over medium-high heat. When the oil shimmers, add the celery, onion, peppers, garlic, salt and pepper, and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are translucent, 3 to 4 minutes.

Add the chorizo and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the tomatoes, okra, paprika and cayenne, and continue cooking for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring frequently.

Add the stock and vinegar and bring to a simmer.

Decrease the heat to low, cover and cook, stirring occasionally, for 20 to 25 minutes, until the vegetables are tender and the mixture has thickened slightly.

Add the shrimp and stir to combine. Continue to cook 4 to 5 minutes, until the shrimp are cooked through.

To serve:

Serve the shrimp and sauce over the warm grits.

Excerpted from "The Rise: Black Cooks and the Soul of American Food: A Cookbook" by Marcus Samuelsson.

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