When it comes to anti-aging ingredients, retinol is usually considered the gold standard. The skin care powerhouse is featured in many serums and creams that promise to reduce the appearance of fine lines and signs of aging. And while experts agree that it can be a helpful tool for tackling those issues, it can also come with some unfortunate side effects like redness and dryness, especially for those with sensitive skin.
If you've struggled to get past the retinol-induced irritation, bakuchiol (buh-koo-chee-all) could be a good alternative. Often called "nature's retinol" the plant-based ingredient has been popping up in an increasing number of beauty product labels and all over social media lately. The #bakuchiol tag on TikTok has racked up more than 115 million views.
So we tapped Dr. Jordan C. Carqueville, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of The Derm Institute of Chicago to get all the details on the trendy ingredient.
What is bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol is a phytochemical that comes from the leaves and stems of the babchi plant (psoralea corylifolia), which has long been used in Ayurvedic and traditional Chinese medicine. When applied to the skin, its effects are similar to those of retinol, Carqueville says. Like its vitamin A-derived counterpart, bakuchiol can help boost collagen production, making your skin look tighter and plumper.
"As we age, our fibroblasts become senescent, so they stop producing as much collagen," Carqueville says. Retinoids and bakuchiol can help counteract that. "When you use topicals like these, you stimulate these cells to become alive again ... that means that you’re growing new cells, and your skin is supple and tighter. It helps to reduce photodamage as well because you’re stimulating those cells." For the same reason, bakuchiol can also help reduce the appearance of static wrinkles, which are caused by loss of collagen and elasticity.
As an added bonus, the ingredient exfoliates that top layer of the skin, which can help improve brightness, she said. It's also an antioxidant, so it fights damaging free radicals caused by UV exposure.
While retinol delivers similar benefits, it usually comes with an adjustment period, during which time your skin may be red, flaky and dry while it gets used to the ingredient. With bakuchiol, there's less risk of irritation, Carqueville notes, although experts aren't entirely sure why.
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How to choose a bakuchiol product
The ingredient can be used to both prevent and help treat age-related skin issues, and could be a good option for anyone looking to brighten their skin, fade pigmentation and boost collagen production, Carqueville says. You should always be applying SPF daily, but just like with retinol, when using bakuchiol, it's important to be mindful of sun exposure and apply sunscreen regularly, as it could make you more susceptible to burns.
There are a variety of options on the market, from creams to serums, and which one you choose is mostly a matter of personal preference, she says. "Someone with oily skin might prefer something that's not oil-based, and someone with dry skin might prefer an oil-based or cream-based product."
What percentage of bakuchiol is effective?
Most products have a concentration of 0.5 to two percent, though Carqueville recommends opting for a higher concentration. If you do notice any irritation, you should limit use to a few times per week. While studies have shown that the ingredient is more tolerable for skin, as with most ingredients, there's still a chance that your skin may have a reaction.
With that in mind, if you're hoping to start reaping the anti-aging benefits of retinol, without all the redness and flaking, we found 11 bakuchiol products that you can try.
Bakuchiol skin care products
The INKEY List Bakuchiol Retinol Alternative Moisturizer
The INKEY List is an internet-favorite brand known for creating affordable and effective skin care products. And the beauty company's bakuchiol moisturizer is no different. At just $13, it's one of the most wallet-friendly options on this list. It features the anti-aging ingredient along with omega 3-rich sacha inchi oil and hydrating squalane.
Acure Radically Rejuvenating Dual Phase Bakuchiol Serum
This bakuchiol serum has two layers, the top is an antioxidant and probiotic-rich essence and the bottom is a moisturizing serum. Shake before use to combine and get the full skin rejuvenating effects. The skin care solution has an average 4.4-star rating from more than 4,900 reviews, with many people saying that they love how soft it makes their skin feel.
Burt's Bees Renewal Firming Face Cream
Meant for daily use, this top-rated moisturizer promises to deliver rich hydration and anti-aging benefits thanks to ingredients like bakuchiol, hyaluronic acid, ceramides and more. It's available as a night cream, moisturizer and firming body lotion, so you can work the star ingredient into your routine in a variety of ways.
Andalou Naturals Age Defying Plant-Based Retinol Alternative Cream
Many reviewers say that this bakuchiol-based cream is great for sensitive skin and doesn't cause dryness or irritation. "My face has never felt more smooth," one shopper wrote. "I use this morning and night. I was amazed the first morning when I woke up and my face still felt hydrated."
Cocokind Resurfacing Sleep Mask
Thanks to the addition of beta-glucan and squalane, this bakuchiol sleep mask is said to lock in hydration and restore your moisture barrier as you snooze.
Innbeauty Project Slushy Serum Moisturizer Crush
Part serum, part moisturizer, this formula is designed to protect and hydrate skin. To make the product, bakuchiol extract is spun into a hyaluronic acid serum. The result? A slushy-like texture that the brand says is truly "one-of-a-kind."
Ole Henriksen Glow Cycle Retin-ALT Power Serum
Swap your go-to a.m. serum for this option from Ole Henriksen. It's made with a combination of AHAs and bakuchiol to help fight signs of aging and create a more even skin tone. It also features a handful of other plant-based ingredients, like edelweiss stem cells, hibiscus flower extract and red algae, which add to the skin smoothing and brightening effects.
Biossance Squalane + Phyto-Retinol Serum
Cruelty-free and vegan, this serum from Biossance features bakuchiol and niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3 that functions as an antioxidant to keep your skin firm without irritation. The airless pump on the bottle is designed to dispense every last drop of product so nothing goes to waste.
Herbivore Bakuchiol Retinol Alternative Smoothing Serum
Herbivore's jelly-like serum goes on smooth and leaves your skin feeling instantly softer and more hydrated. In a blind-use test conducted by the brand, 85 percent of participants agreed that their skin looked smoother and less dull after four weeks of twice-daily use.
Supergoop! Daily Dose Bioretinol + Mineral SPF 40 with Bakuchiol
This bakuchiol and SPF treatment is the latest release from the beloved sunscreen brand Supergoop!. According to the brand, the two ingredients work together to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles while preventing future damage. It's said to be gentle enough for daytime use, and the company says that you can even put it on in the morning and still use your go-to retinol in the evening (as long as your skin tolerates it) to give your anti-aging routine a boost.
Paula's Choice 0.3% Retinol + 2% Bakuchiol Treatment
This option from Paula's Choice uses both bakuchiol — one of the only ingredients that can stabilize retinol, according to the brand — and a low percentage of retinol to stimulate and strengthen the skin. Reviewers say the product is also great for controlling acne and helps with enlarged pores. Though, this option will have an adjustment period like other retinol-based products. The brand recommends applying three times per week to start, followed up with a moisturizer or SPF during the day.
