Chef notes
In the Rio Grande Valley, where I grew up, flea-market tortas are the best ones — greasy rolls stuffed with queso fresco and deshebrado (shredded) chicken. The lady who ran my favorite stand in town was arrested for bringing in illegal Mexican cheese, which tasted so right. But thankfully she's back in business. This tribute makes moist chicken that you shred and snuggle into avocado slices and creamy cotija dressing on a crusty roll. Not as greasy, but straight from my Brownsville heart. Cotija cheese is a firm cow's milk cheese that crumbles easily, like feta in a lot of ways, but not as sharp. This thick and creamy dressing is also great on sturdy greens like romaine or on a wedge of iceberg.
Technique tips and swap options:
Substitute any cooked chicken, including rotisserie chicken. You'll need about 3 cups. A stand mixer is an efficient way to shred chicken. You can buy cotija at Mexican markets and many supermarkets. Feta may be substituted, but imported goat's milk feta will be tangier than domestic varieties. Traditional torta breads include telera or bolillo rolls, but any crusty oblong sandwich roll works. Serve with escabeche (pickled vegetables) for a classic pairing.
