Can lab-grown diamonds earn the same status as natural diamonds? Many say yes, while others argue its origin lacks prestige. With the economic surge of lab-grown gemstones, many buyers are shifting their perception of this stone category to maximize their earnings.
Walmart reported a 600% year-over-year increase in lab-grown diamond sales. Another major retailer leveraging its luxury category is Sam's Club, with expanded in-club offerings for members in its lab-grown diamond group. Now, they sell lab-created diamonds at all their locations.
But does origin matter when it comes to diamonds? Some argue it's not as important, especially when it's hard to distinguish between lab-grown and earth-mined diamonds. Chemically, physically and optically, they look the same, with the only way to examine their birthplace is through different tests done by a professional jeweler, such as UV light, a magnifying glass and others.
"The beauty of natural diamonds is that they are unique and not alike. With lab-grown diamonds, you can get a larger diamond for significantly less," says chief executive officer for Tacori, Paul Tacorian.
In the end, price does matter, at least for one recently wed Shop TODAY editor, Kamari Stewart-Jackson. "Aesthetically, they’re exactly the same as natural diamonds but at a fraction of the price. I’d rather save the money that would’ve been spent on a natural diamond to be used on a long-term investment like saving for a house or, even better, a honeymoon!"
However, can lab-grown and real diamonds co-exist in this world? Tacorian thinks so. Creating lab-grown diamonds "is cost-effective, and opens the floodgate doors for creating bigger pieces with real diamonds in the jewelry industry," he adds.
Whether you're looking for a gift or shopping for an engagement ring, we spoke to a group of experts to break down the jewelry debate.
Lab-grown vs. natural diamonds. Which one should I choose?
Is it taboo to wear an engagement ring made of lab-grown diamonds? Experts argue their differences, with one expert jeweler saying it's all about your perception and what's valuable to you. "And often they outshine natural diamonds, since with technology, you can make lab-grown diamonds super high clarity and super brilliant," says jewelry designer and founder of Liloveve Gallery Caroline Gleman.
However, some traditional jewelers are opposed to the synthetic version and hesitant to value lab-grown diamonds the same way as natural ones. "The value will always hold in a natural diamond compared to a lab-grown, and it just kind of dilutes what is special about diamonds to me," shares the owner of Sydney Evan and jewelry expert Rosanne Karmes.
And it's true, natural diamonds hold their value compared to lab-grown diamonds. “When it comes to their rarity, they are not the same as natural diamonds, as lab-grown diamonds are in abundance," shares the founder of La Joya Jewelry, Nishit Mehta. One key factor to note is the resale value. Natural diamonds can be resold, and you can get about 50% of what they are appraised for. On the other hand, lab-grown diamonds don't hold resale value.
So, it all comes down to the price point, your budget and what you want to save now rather than invest later. "Over two-thirds of Americans getting engaged today are opting for diamonds created by men," says founder and CEO of ALTR & J’Evar Amish Shah.
"Also, you can take more design risks when it comes to lab-grown diamonds because there is less risk of losing raw materials from natural diamonds," says the director of public relations at De Beers Group. Noting that she has seen more intrinsic and bigger designs when the buyer goes the lab-grown route.
How are lab-grown diamonds made?
There are two primary methods for creating lab-grown diamonds. "One is the CVD or the chemical vapor deposition, and the other is HPHT, which stands for high-pressure high-temperature," shares Mehta.
"Basically, what they do is they take a small diamond seed, a sliver of a diamond, put it in a container, and subject it to tremendous pressure. And over time, they try to mimic how a carbon would be under the surface of the earth, it grows into a diamond, and then the diamond is polished," adds Mehta.
The biggest difference between lab-grown and natural diamonds is “the traces of nitrogen that are found in natural diamonds. But we expect, as technology becomes superior, that scientists will be able to add nitrogen in highly-specialized labs,” says co-founder of Angara, Aditi Daga.
Do lab-grown diamonds have a grading report?
Still, IGI (the International Gemological Institute) grades lab-grown diamonds the same way natural diamonds are graded. However, other labs are banning certification for lab-grown diamonds to have a clear distinction between them.
As the diamond industry grapples with these reports, GIA stands strong in its beliefs and reported that it will stop grading lab-grown diamonds with the universal 4Cs (cut, color, clarity and carat weight). In a recent statement, GIA said it will laser-etch the term "laboratory-grown" on the diamond with the GIA quality assessment number. They will be classified either as premium or standard based on the minimum criteria each diamond meets.
Below, you'll find our editor-approved lab-grown diamonds from different retailers, along with some favorites from our own personal perspective.
Lab-grown diamonds, selected by our editors
Editor Vivien Moon owns a few of Gorjana's pieces and loves them. "I have a few of their products. I have an anklet that I wear, and it's good, along with a stack of rings that are gorgeous," shares Moon. Plus, the flat back post makes it ideal for those with sensitive ears and makes it easy to sleep in.
Make a sophisticated statement wearing this geometric ring from Pandora. This brand is also a favorite of mine when it comes to modern jewelry for their feminine designs. This one comes in multiple carat weights and can be personalized with three metal choices. It's also treated with a post-growth color enhancement.
Sam's Club is now offering more lab-grown diamonds in all its retailers. This necklace features an array of small, rounded diamonds in a delicate chain that is adjustable. It glitters and can be layered with other pieces for a delicate sparkle.
I’ve been wearing these tiny hoops for two weeks and love how comfortable they feel on my earlobes. The diamonds are brilliantly sparkly and never irritate my skin. While petite in size, they deliver a stunning, eye-catching finish that elevates any look. Plus, this pair goes well with my newly acquired Alexandra Beth Diamond Ear Cuff.
These earrings deliver a stunning sparkle and feature durable rhodium plating for a sleek, polished finish. Designed for special occasions, they add a touch of elegance to any outfit. Their brilliant shine is available in your choice of lab-grown or natural diamonds, making them a versatile and luxurious accessory. I only wear these for special outings and occasions — whenever I want to elevate my outfit.
How to clean your diamonds
“Don’t wear your diamonds to the gym, swimming or during strenuous activities,” advises Tacori. For a quick clean at home, you can place your diamond in a metal strainer and boil it in water to remove buildup. There are also specialized cleaning solutions available on the market that can help keep your diamonds sparkling. Also, the experts recommend mixing a few drops of mild dish soap in warm water, soaking your diamond for 15 to 20 minutes, then gently scrubbing with a soft toothbrush. Do not use abrasive chemicals to clean your diamond, and keep it in a soft pouch or compartment.
Tools to clean lab-grown diamonds
I own a similar gel pen meant for cleaning diamonds and rings, and it works perfectly. It's portable and easy to carry in your bag for a quick touch-up. Consumers say this is easy to use and there's no rinsing or soaking involved, which makes it perfect for on-the-go.
Keep your diamonds safe and sparkling with this foaming solution from Alexandra Beth. It comes with a small brush designed to reach tight spaces and remove debris, ensuring your jewelry stays clean and brilliant.
I own this product and the first time I used it, I inserted many rings, necklaces and some dainty earrings inside the vessel. I left it overnight, and when I took my jewelry out, I could see all the gunk left behind. It comes with a cleaning solution that you mix with water, along with a cleaning brush to remove dirt in unreachable corners. Moon also loves this cleaning solution for how easy it is to use and that it makes a great gift for the jewelry lover in your life.
Frequently asked questions
According to the Federal Trade Commission (FTC), the word 'natural' on a diamond has been erased as a way to define diamonds. This revision acknowledges technological developments of diamonds that are formed below and above ground.
According to Daga, the brilliant marketing "A Diamond is Forever" has fed us with the idea that we need to spend thousands of dollars to acquire a shiny stone. Or spend two months of salary on an engagement ring.
Historically, "those prices were artificially inflated because of that controlled monopoly," says Daga. Many behavioral shifts are happening now where consumers feel okay with embracing their own flaws and think financially when it comes to acquiring diamonds. "Over 55% of engagement rings are lab-grown diamonds," says Daga.
"Pricing for lab-grown diamonds is now up to 90% off. The larger the stone, the larger the discount, which is a compelling offer for customers," adds Daga.
Since the demand and supply of diamonds have been controlled, pricing is controlled, as well.
Indeed, lab-grown diamonds are trending, and the search for these glittering stones has increased by 26% over the past year. But, consumers are also looking for less-perfect vintage stones "since they were hand cut back in the days. You can’t mimic that. Because all the lab diamonds are now being cut with the laser and look too perfect," says co-founder of Goldpoint Jewelry Sunim Choi.
Warmer tones are also being sought after, as they convey a more natural origin. "So the natural stones that are vintage often have the warmer tones that they’re just not making in the lab at the moment," adds Olivia Michaels, the other co-founder of Goldpoint Jewelry.
Also, older-mined diamonds are also trending in the natural spectrum. "There is a huge trend in both consumers and designers that they’re looking for diamonds that are a little bit more unique, like antique diamonds or stones with a warmer tone so people would be more inclined to think it's a natural diamond rather than a lab-grown," shares jewelry designer Mona Ye.
You really want to be mindful of where and how your lab-grown diamond is being produced. "Make sure that you know where your source is coming from and that they are very transparent with you. Also, consider if the companies use renewable resources and energy," mentions Ye.
"We only use lab-grown companies that are carbon neutral, because even though lab-grown diamonds are grown with less energy than a mined diamond, they still use fossil fuels, and energy to grow them. So it’s not completely carbon neutral," adds Choi.
She also suggests looking into companies that are SCS certified, "which is one of the highest jewelry sustainability certification third parties that ensure the origin, and what renewable energy is used, etcetera."
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Meet the experts
At Shop TODAY, our reporters interview a range of qualified sources and experts to capture a wide scope of perspectives on a given topic. We also make sure that all expert guidance and recommendations are made independently and with no undisclosed financial conflicts of interest.
- Caroline Gleman is a jewelry designer and the founder of Liloveve Gallery.
- Nishit Mehta, a fifth-generation diamond expert and founder of La Joya Jewelry, one of the fastest-growing lab-grown diamond brands in the U.S.
- Rosanne Karmes is the owner of Sydney Evan, a jewelry company offering fine jewelry pieces inspired by sentiment, spirituality and strength.
- Paul Tacorian is the chief executive officer of Tacori.
- Amish Shah is the founder and CEO of ALTR & J'Evar, and a luxury jewelry innovator.
- Olivia and Sunim Choi are co-owners, founders, and designers of Goldpoint Jewelry, bringing over 20 years of combined experience in the jewelry industry.
- Aditi Daga is the co-founder of Angara, a jewelry company focused on custom designs.
- Mona Ye is a New York City-based designer and the founder of YÉ, a brand offering bespoke jewelry.
- Sally Morrison is the director of public relations at De Beers Group and focuses on marketing initiatives for natural diamonds.
