Shrimp Cocktail with Dilly Horseradish Cream

Chef notes

Shrimp cocktail and a martini so cold it hurts your fingers: It simply does not get much better than that. Shrimp are sorted and sold by size and marked according to about how many pieces of shrimp comprise 1 pound. I like the larger size of U10/15 for shrimp cocktail (meaning, 10 to 15 pieces shrimp per pound), but if you can't find them, go for slightly smaller ones (16/20). Most importantly, make sure they are shell-on — this is crucial when poaching shrimp, as the shell acts like a protective barrier for the flesh. Smaller shrimp will cook faster, so if you're using size 16/20, knock off 30 seconds from the cook time. It sounds fussy, but it makes all the difference in the world, I swear.