The most exciting wines I have tasted this year range from a $38 Napa Valley boutique Merlot to an obscure, $8 red from the desert of southern Spain, with lots of others in between. In fact, when I recently opened another bottle of that Spanish wine, I found it as delightful, with its gorgeous fruit, as it was on first tasting many months ago. In wine, first impressions are usually right.
While it may not be among the most complex wines of the year, the 2001 Viña Salvana will certainly go down as one of the best values. And it will provide an elegant accompaniment to all kinds of holiday fare, from turkey and the trimmings to red meats and beyond. It will also serve as a very decent red for holiday parties.
The modest cost proves once again that there are still very good — if not quite great — wines out there for not much money. And here’s something else to consider: my little wine came with no hype; I simply pulled it off a shelf at a store in my neighborhood, which demonstrates that in a wine world full of exaggerated marketing claims and enticing labels, the only thing that really matters is what’s in the bottle, whatever the price.
For the holidays, I’ve chosen a dozen favorite wines from my columns this year, which, in turn, were chosen from many hundreds that I tasted. These are wines I could return to again and again. Red and white, pricey and inexpensive, they have in common an immediate appeal — generating an excitement that instantly sets them apart from many others. An exceptional wine — or, to put it another way, a wine that you really like — has a way of etching itself in your taste memory.
The Whites Ocone Falanghina del Taburno 2003, Italy. From volcanic soils in Campania, which produce wonderful minerals in the wine; melon, pear, hints of grapefruit and more; refreshing and sophisticated. $12.
Castello Banfi “San Angelo” Pinot Grigio 2003, Italy. Delightful, complex Pinot Grigio from a big American-owned Tuscan producer; has a nice range of tastes, including tart green apple, a bit of green pepper, herbs, smoke and a refreshing citrus finish. $14.
Bonny Doon Vineyard “The Heart Has Its Rieslings” 2003, California. With its typically off-beat Bonny Doon name, one of the top American Rieslings for a second year; off-dry and luscious yet has crisp acidity; full of tropical fruit, including pear, banana, mango and orange. $15.
Marc Tempé “Zellenberg” Pinot Blanc 2001, Alsace, France. Gorgeous fruit distinguishes this one from more generic Pinot Blancs; apricot, honey and touches of lime, vanilla and smoke; limited availability; contact Vintage ‘59 Imports, 202-966-9218. $16.
Concha y Toro “Terrunyo” Sauvignon Blanc 2003, Chile. World-class Sauvignon from a single vineyard of this large producer; among the best Sauvignons I have tasted in recent years; notes of pear, green apple, orange, lemon and lime; minerals on the finish. $20.
Chalone Vineyard Chardonnay 2002, California. From unique terroir in Monterey County, full yet crisp and dominated by great fruit, not oak; an array of tastes, including stone fruit, pear, lime, pineapple, honey and spice; Chardonnay the way I like it. $25.
The Reds Bodegas Agrosol Viña Salvana 2001, Spain. From the desert Almeíra region in the southeast, a delicious blend of Monastrell (Mourvèdre), Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon; ripe and intense, dominated by blackberry and blueberry. $8.
HRM Rex Goliath Pinot Noir 2001, California. Good acidity and nice fruit make this Central Coast bargain one of the more appealing Pinots for under $10; a mix of berry and cherry fruit, touches of spice and vanilla; not complicated but very tasty. $9 or less.
Côte de l’Ange Côtes du Rhône 2003, France. This gem from the southern Rhône, mainly from Grenache, benefitted from a hot summer and is bursting with fruit while still lean in structure; jammy, with raspberry and strawberry notes; exceptional at its price. $10
Ghislaine Barthod Bourgone “Les Bons Bâtons” 2001, France. First-rate Burgundy at a moderate price; light in color with beautiful, concentrated Pinot Noir fruit; cherry, blueberry, plum, hints of orange and minerals; a wine that will impress your guests. $19.
Grgich Hills Napa Valley Zinfandel 2001, California. Even for those who don’t usually go for Zinfandel (too big? too alcoholic?), this one is a model of balance and elegance; ripe dark berry, plum and cedar, with good acidity. $29.
Carter Cellars Napa Valley Merlot 2001, California. The ‘01 was just beautiful, with its fruit-orchard aromas and raspberry, cassis and chocolate notes; one of the year’s very best; the bad news: it’s sold out; the good news: the ’02 has been released, though in limited amounts. Call the winery at 707-445-0311 for information. $38.
Edward Deitch's wine column appears Thursdays. Write to him at @hotmail.com.