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Sweet! Tasty trends in the world of chocolate

Sales of chocolate are up, fueled by claims about health benefits. Phil Lempert reports from America’s biggest chocolate show.

Aaah! The aroma! The texture! The taste!

A wine aficionado in ecstasy? Or a coffee connoisseur marveling over the latest high-mountain blend?

Maybe. But, more and more, this type of enthusiasm is likely to emanate from a fan of chocolate.

Chocolate devotees, just like wine and coffee lovers who preceded them, are leading the rest of us down a path where the ultimate goal is to look at, take in the aroma and be able to identify the subtle flavors in a bite-size morsel that “makes women swoon” and “calms the hearts of men.”

And these fans are gathering this week at the ever-growing New York Chocolate Show, which opens to the public tomorrow.

No doubt about it — chocolate is hot. Based on the combined analysis of ACNielsen’s Homescan and Scantrak information, sales are up 6 percent over last year. That translates to the average American spending $72.73 in this category over the 12-month period.

Part of the reason: There’s something undeniably mystical and irresistible about chocolate. The word itself is sensual and romantic. The creamy, silky texture; the deep, dark, elegant color; the exquisitely sweet, rich flavor; the tantalizing aroma — the experience of a piece of pure chocolate melting on the tip of your tongue is a truly pleasurable moment. No wonder chocolate is often referred to as decadent and has been forbidden in some religious groups. Indulging in the luxurious stuff feels so good it must be bad!

But it isn’t all bad. Not only are sales fueled by enthusiasm for taste and indulgence, but also from increasing evidence that chocolate — in some forms at least — can provide some health benefits. For instance, so-called “diet chocolate” showed an incredible 329 percent growth between 2003 and 2004.

And to be sure, the preview buzz at the show includes plenty of talk about antioxidants, low-fat and sugar-free.

Since last year’s trips up and down the aisles of the show, more commercially produced chocolates (versus the handmade or small-batch produced brands available at this show) have reformulated to tout “low-carb” or eliminate the dreaded trans-fats.

Here’s some background on this unique — and varied — product, derived from the cacao bean, which was first cultivated more than 3,000 years ago by the Mayans and Aztecs.

Chocolate: Chock-full of good thingsNew research shows that chocolate contains potent little packages of health-conferring chemicals. It may prevent free-radical damage through its rich antioxidants, which can help prevent cancer and heart disease, enhance our immune system, and give us a feeling of well-being. Cocoa also contains one of the highest natural sources of magnesium, which has been proven beneficial for cardiovascular health and hypertension.

Like some other plant foods, chocolate is chock-full of a wide range of antioxidant compounds called polyphenols, including the procyanidins epicatechin and catechin. Fruit, vegetables, wine and tea have polyphenolic flavonoids as well but, amazingly, polyphenols are found in much higher abundance in chocolate and cocoa. The amount of polyphenols in milk chocolate is equivalent to that of five servings of fruits and vegetables. The following is the measurement of the polyphenol content in 1.25 ounces of cocoa products:

  • Milk chocolate: 300 mg
  • Dark chocolate: 700 mg
  • Cocoa powder: 1,300 mg

Why chocolate makes you feel goodOK, so it contains some good nutrition, but why does chocolate make you feel good?

Sometimes we get these intense cravings for chocolate. We’re feeling moody and irritable, even depressed, but once we eat some good chocolate, we feel better.

It turns out that chocolate is a mood-enhancer. It contains phenethylamine (PEA), which stimulates the nervous system, triggering the release of endorphins, opiate-like compounds that dull pain and give a sense of well-being. (However, before you head for the nearest Hershey bar, know that the jury is still out on whether the high fat and sugar content — which definitely have their downsides — are factors for this response.)

There are also chemicals in chocolate that increase the activity of dopamine, a neurotransmitter directly associated with feelings of sexual arousal and pleasure. Additionally, chocolate can also boost brain levels of serotonin, the “happy” neurotransmitter, especially in women (who tend to be more sensitive to chocolate than men).

Chocolate’s dark sideOK, so eating chocolate has a lot of benefits, but what about the fat and sugar in chocolate?

It is true that chocolate tends to be high in fat and sugar, but, depending on the kind of fat in the chocolate, it might not be too hard on your arteries. High-quality chocolates are made with cocoa butter, a fat comprised of approximately one-third proportions of oleic acid, a monounsaturated fat (like in olive oil), and stearic acid and palmitic acid, which are saturated fats. Oleic acid has been shown to lower both total and LDL cholesterol. And interestingly, although stearic acid is a saturated fatty acid (SFA), unlike other SFAs it does not seem to affect blood cholesterol. Palmitic acid, however, does raise blood cholesterol, so even quality chocolate should be eaten in moderation. (Remember, not all chocolate is made with cocoa butter, so be sure to read labels.)

Chocolate also contains stimulants, such as caffeine. One 1.5-ounce bar of dark chocolate contains about 30 milligrams of caffeine, milk chocolate contains 10 mg, and an 8-ounce serving of hot cocoa contains 5 milligrams. In comparison, an 8-ounce serving of brewed coffee contains 135 mg of caffeine, 12 ounces of Mountain Dew contains about 56 mg, and cola contains about 35 milligrams.

When you do want to indulge, my recommendation is to choose the darkest, richest chocolate you can find. Chocolatiers such as many of the European makers who will be at the New York Chocolate Show make dark chocolates containing 70 percent or more cocoa. The average commercially produced chocolate bar contains about 40 percent. The higher the cocoa content the more healthy benefits consumed.

Enough background, let’s get to the chocs!We’ve had an advance tasting, and here are some of my “hits” that you may want to check out. And be sure to watch Monday’s “Today” show to see all the great chocolates we found (and see which ones Katie, Matt, Ann and Al select as their favorites):

Martine’s ChocolatesThese upscale confections are handmade fresh daily, right in front of customers, at Martine’s Chocolate shop in New York City.  www.martineschocolates.com

Chocolat Moderne
New Yorker Joan Coukos, CEO of Chocolat Moderne, create sumptuous assortments of luxury gift-boxed chocolates in her own chocolate laboratory on West 20th Street in New York City. All are made with French extra-bitter chocolate and other exotic ingredients. Molded and decorated by hand using airbrushing and stencils, signature flavors include Madame ‘X’Tasy, a dark chocolate truffle with Illy espresso and lemon zest, and a new line of lychee-based bonbons.www.chocolatmoderne.com

Garrison Confections
Andrew Shotts, owner of Garrison Confections, was named one of the top 10 artisanal chocolatiers in the country by USA Today. He hand-enrobes each piece in milk, dark or white chocolate.  Many bonbons include two distinct flavor or textural combinations within each piece, and feature creative flavors such as Bananas Foster (fresh banana ganache with crunchy caramel flakes, rum and butter, enrobed in milk chocolate), Caramel Pear (pear pate de fruit layer with caramel ganache, enrobed in dark chocolate), and Chili Berry (spicy ganache with raspberry pate de fruit, enrobed in dark chocolate).  www.garrisonconfections.com

Lillie Belle Farms
These award-winning chocolates are completely handmade using time-honored European techniques with an American twist. This one-man operation (with a two-acre farm) organically cultivates and hand-picks organic red and gold raspberries, strawberries, blueberries and Marion berries to make delicious fruit cordials and truffles.www.lilliebellefarms.com

Payard Chocolates
Hand-sculpted and filled with liquor, fruit or nuts, each sumptuous piece is named for a famous artist. Their masterpiece collection features such flavors as Szechuan Pepper and Cinnamon, Green Tea and Wasabi, and Yuzu.www.payard.com

Schokinag
Hot chocolate produced only with bits of real chocolate and natural flavorings, to be made with milk for a rich, creamy taste. Flavors include Triple Chocolate, Dulce de Leche, Chocolate Mocha and German Chocolate Cake.www.drinkyourchocolate.com

Jacques Torres Chocolate
Renowned chocolatier Jacques Torres, whose new New York City store is opening to coincide with the chocolate show, has created a new twist to classic fortune cookies. First, he's written his own fun, witty, informative fortunes that combine chocolate facts with predictions for your future. Then, he coated the cookie with his deep, rich, dark chocolate.www.Mrchocolate.com

Chocolate Bar
This company, which also has its own store, tells us their inspiration to develop the Retro line of products came from summertime fun at seashore boardwalk candy shops, carnivals, state fairs and the local soda shop. Each flavor is a modern update on a classic formula and made with gourmet chocolate. For example: PB and J is made with raspberry jelly, premium peanut butter and milk chocolate, Caramel Apple is “gooey” apple-infused caramel in milk chocolate, and Key Lime Pie is Key Lime-infused ganache in dark chocolate.www.chocolatebarnyc.com

Dagoba Organic Chocolate
This Oregon company creates its exquisite chocolate products by using organic ingredients and eco-friendly manufacturing practices. Their facility, located in the beautiful Rogue Valley, is 100-percent powered by renewable energy sources and is dedicated organic — no conventional chocolate ever passes through their machinery. There are sixteen flavors of premium organic bars that are infused with exotic ingredients, like Roseberry, dark chocolate with dried raspberries and rosehips, and Brasilia, milk chocolate with coconut and roasted Brazil nuts and pecans. www.dagobachocolate.com

Nutritious Chocolate This is completely vegan chocolate, made without any dairy or any other animal products.  It is high in protein, with 20 grams of soy protein per bar, and is rich in antioxidants, phytonutrients and heart-healthy phytosterols. There are also over 30 wholesome fruits and vegetables in every bar, including wheat-grass powder, broccoli, aloe vera, pomegranate, watermelon, lemon and blood orange.  www.nutritiouschocolate.com

Chocolate Fountain One of the hottest trends in the chocolate world is the chocolate fountain. At a wedding or other big event, warm chocolate cascades down a tower and the fabulous chocolate aroma fills the air. Take a banana, strawberry, marshmallow or even a piece of cheese and hold it under the waterfall of chocolate. The warm chocolate covering is not only delicious but fun, and it's become a hit among party planners. Machines are available for rental or purchase.www.thechocolatefountain.com

More about the showFor more information on chocolate and the New York Chocolate Show, tune in to the “Today” show on Monday, November 15, to see Phil’s report.

Phil Lempert is food editor of the “Today” show. He welcomes questions and comments, which can be sent