A more than decent Pinot Noir for less than $10 is a relatively rare wine and, when uncovered, qualifies as the wine equivalent of breaking news. So, this just in: the 2001 HRM Rex Goliath Pinot Noir is one of the better Pinots you’re likely to find in this price range.
Now, I’m not going to compare it with Pinots that cost twice as much or more, whether from California, as this one is, or from Oregon or Burgundy for that matter. But for $9 (and I’ve even seen it priced at $8 or less), this is a thoroughly enjoyable Pinot Noir for everyday drinking.
I was so intrigued by the prospect that I tried a glass of it the other night on its own, and it will match well with any number of dishes, from hamburgers to grilled chicken to salmon. It would be fun to line it up with some more expensive Pinot Noirs in a “blind” tasting with friends.
It comes from California’s Central Coast and rises above some of the more mundane wines from that region, in part, because it has a good level of acidity that gives it an overall brightness that’s noticeable from the start. Raspberry and some oak are detectable in the aromas, followed by blueberry, dark cherry, a bit of spice and vanilla. The finish isn’t terribly long, but for $9 the wine is interesting enough.
By the way, the name — HRM (His Royal Majesty) Rex Goliath — is taken from that of a giant rooster that was a circus attraction in Texas a century ago. Why not, I suppose, if it sells wine? With 46,000 cases of the Pinot Noir, they’re betting that it will. There’s also a Cabernet, a Merlot and a Chardonnay.
Of noteStone Lake Chardonnay sounds like it might come from California or perhaps Chile. It’s a lean and fruity wine with subtle oak and is altogether pleasant and worthwhile at $7. A glance down the front label of the 2001 Reserve reveals that it’s from the “Black Sea Region” and, if you look closely on the back label, you’ll see, in tiny type, that the wine is “produced and bottled in Bulgaria.”
Stone Lake is part of the big Vinex Slavyantsi winery in eastern Bulgaria, which churns out some 20 million bottles a year under various labels, mostly for export. Until 1990, the wine industry in the formerly Communist country was under state control. Based on the Stone Lake Chardonnay, Bulgarian wine under capitalism may deserve a closer look. The wine is primarily available at this point at about 300 stores and restaurants in the New York metropolitan area. For more information you can contact Lovico Wine Importers at 718-353-9559.
Edward Deitch's wine column appears Thursdays. Write to him at .