New York Fashion Week wrapped up Friday with some of the biggest and most classic American designers, including Ralph Lauren, previewing their fall collections. Isabel Toledo, who until now has had an avant-garde touch, also showed her first line for the venerable brand Anne Klein.
The big fashion show moves to London on Sunday, followed by Milan, Italy and Paris, with many of the same editors, stylists and retail buyers in tow.
Tommy HilfigerTommy Hilfiger returned to Fashion Week after a several-season hiatus with the styles that made him famous in the first place — preppy classics. Tweeds, cable-knit sweaters, plaids and peacoats were all important in the collection, contributing to a sophisticated twist on the collegiate look.
A turtleneck sweater dress with horizontal black-and-white stripes looked modern and fresh as did a blackwatch plaid (a specific tartan plaid) cape with reflective lining and a reflective circle skirt, which were worn with a red cashmere turtleneck sweater.
Hilfiger certainly picked up on some of the seasonal trends, including mixing day and night looks into a single outfit (a navy wool cropped jacket worn with a tan silk skirt) and presenting a layered look that was still sleek and slim (a short tweed jumper with a turtleneck). He also had a strong group of coats, one of the most important items of next season, though his were more casual than those seen on most other runways.
There was also an adorable cocktail look: a navy silk dress with beading in the shape of a bandeau bikini top at the bustline over a navy turtleneck.
“Evening is about casual elegance with a surprise,” Hilfiger said in his notes.
Ralph LaurenWhy reinvent the wheel? Ralph Lauren’s collections are consistently elegant and sophisticated, and that’s exactly what he plans for fall.
He cut the clothes, which were almost all luxe-looking wools, very close to the body, even bucking conventional wisdom that slim bottoms need roomier tops and vice versa. Lauren’s long and lean black trousers found a perfect mate in a cropped cashmere tweed jacket, although it’s really a look only long and lean women could pull off.
He also broke with the pack in using a sundress silhouette for a cashmere dress that was further winterized by a turtleneck sweater, and lining a bomber jacket — in brown silk faille, of course — with fur.
Lauren also clearly took a shine to gold, offering a range of metallic pieces for a range of occasions, from a puffy ski vest to a short, belted leather trench. There also was a gold lame gown with a plunging V neck.
Anne KleinIsabel Toledo said that Anne Klein herself was the inspiration for this collection because of the late designer’s creativity, passion and classic style.
Toledo picked up on Klein’s use of “couture haberdashery,” using feminine details and fabrics on menswear silhouettes. The result was powerful clothes that could put the brand back in favor with both style insiders and shoppers.
The first thing one noticed here was bold color, particularly red and navy. There was a red wide-wale corduroy coat dress with flange pockets that was outstanding. The same corduroy was used for a pair of pouch-pocket pants, worn with a pewter-colored, double-breasted raincoat with winged sleeves.
The construction of all the coats was intricate and interesting, especially a ballet-pink cashmere one with an origami-folded collar, and a dressy, double-breasted black satin duster coat with a double-collar and A-line shape.
Another evening look was a high-shine silver tuxedo with a high-neck bronze lace blouse.
For daywear, there were soft, supple leather carpenter pants along with sailor-style wool pants, both often paired with inviting sweaters or a crisp white shirt.
Toledo also put her spin on Anne Klein’s lion-mane insignia, adding ribbon loops that mimicked a mane around the neck of a metallic black tunic.