Rag & Bone declared itself as a serious New York Fashion Week player with a fall collection that was equally somber and stylish.
The label, known mostly for its denim just a few seasons ago, showed serious clothes for men and women on Friday — clothes worthy of the buzz designers David Neville and Marcus Wainwright have been generating and of their up-and-comer award last year from the Council of Fashion Designers of America.
A packed house that included Gisele Bundchen and Julianne Moore saw a parade of gray, black and navy clothes on the runway at midtown Cipriani that seemed loosely military-inspired, but the look was more a retro Russian style than that of a modern-day soldier.
One of the best men's looks was a Navy officer's coat worn with a slim cashmere trouser, while a great women's outfit was a black wool duffel coat worn with a black silk tie-tuxedo shirt and a jodphur-style legging.
A fitted "cigarette" minidress with chunky black beads forming a vertical stripe down the front and back was one of the few pieces with any adornment, really making an impact.
The female models wore berets on their heads in that chic way that French women do it without seeming costume-y at all.
The designers made clear, though, that their commitment is to the local fashion industry and nowhere else with the phrase "Handmade in New York" beamed on to the walls under its name. Neville and Wainwright have been active in a campaign to keep manufacturing in the Garment District.