It's Halston, take two.
New designer Marco Zanini proved at New York Fashion Week on Monday that he understands the fluid, simple shapes that made the label a powerhouse in the 1970s and '80s — something a steady stream of other designers have tried and failed since Roy Halston Frowick died in 1990.
However, Zanini didn't move the label forward much. The challenge he faces is restoring the Halston image from its Studio 54-era heyday while presenting a vision of the future
The designer wisely stayed away from embellishment, giving the impression of a clean slate.
The big question is, what will he fill it with?
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week runs through Feb. 8. Also on Monday were previews from Carolina Herrera and Oscar de la Renta, a 30th anniversary party for Betsey Johnson and a preview of the designs of Peter Som, who is attempting to revive the Bill Blass label with his collection on Thursday.
Oscar de la RentaIt's the curse of being consistent: There wasn't much to debate or discuss following Monday's Oscar de la Renta fashion show because the designer turned out one lovely outfit after another.
"It was gloriously luxe, just right for a fall-winter Oscar de la Renta season," said Harper's Bazaar executive fashion editor Avril Graham. "All the components were there that give his collection its signature elegance and sophistication — well-cut tweeds with a new silhouette, eveningwear with the requisite glamour."
De la Renta followed his formula of chic daywear, with the occasional touch of fur and metallic flash, but he added a twist by using tulle in unexpected places, like over a purple leather skirt.
Feathers surprisingly have become a trend at New York Fashion Week, and de la Renta followed the flock with a black embroidered cocktail dress.
Carolina Herrera When Carolina Herrera does country, only an English countryside manor will do. The fall collection she presented was full of brown, blue, mustard yellow and a lot of feathers.
Models donned Peter Pan hats with their windowpane coats, riding pants and even taffeta cocktail dresses. Many of the outfits also featured ornithology-inspired prints — one was delicate wing print and the other was a more colorful bird print.
The bird print was stunning on a chiffon embroidered gown dotted all over with ostrich feathers. For those who prefer a more subtle look, there was a strapless gown in bronze taffeta with a feather waistband.
Proenza SchoulerEven with four days left of New York Fashion Week, Proenza Schouler pretty much wrapped up the fall trends at its show Monday night. And it was one with a big oversized bow — one of those aforementioned trends.
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are really the first designers of their generation to become bellwether designers, and they confirmed on their runway that the big stories for next season include minidresses, metallic coats, mixed-fabric garments and a palette of mustard yellow, purple, green and blue with the requisite black, gray and winter white.
The first four outfits on the runway — with Brooke Shields, Amy Adams and Dylan McDermott in the audience — were short silk twill dresses in those hot colors. Next came satin pants that were architecturally interesting, with a wraplike front that showed how carefully the garments were put together.
HalstonThe fall '08 collection offered lovely clothes, especially long, loose dresses. And, in an unusual turn, a handful of these styles will be offered to the public beginning Tuesday on NetAPorter.com, several months before they hit the stores.
Zanini, formerly a designer at Versace, certainly has the right tools to take Halston to the next level: Movie mogul Harvey Weinstein is the largest investor and style mavens Tamara Mellon and Rachel Zoe are both consultants.
The palette Zanini chose for fall, ranging from taupe to teal to bright orange, was in line with the popular shades of the season, and the sweeping cardigans, the updated trench and the layers of chunky knits and delicate sheers were right for the times.
Betsey JohnsonBetsey Johnson threw a slamming 30th birthday party for her line, showing off her "Favorite Oldies," ranging from a 1978 diagonal striped one-piece bathing suit to a 1982 shirt with skulls covering it.
But first, the fall '08 looks — a fun and flirty collection not meant for the wide of hip.
Most of the clothing was unforgiving — catsuits that show every bump, animal print leggings with a wool twill blazer barely covering the rear, denim mini-shorts that were paired with a feather adorned V-neck fringey top.
"It's tighter and sexier, but I still believe the girl brings the sex to the clothes," says Johnson. "You won't look sexy in a tight, below-the-knee skirt if you don't feel good in it."
Peter SomPeter Som's newest collection featured many of the traditional trappings of fall — tweed, flannel and a little bit of fur — but he tweaked them just enough to keep the fashion crowd wanting a little more.
And more they'll get. While Som previewed his own label Monday morning, he'll debut his collection for the Bill Blass label on Thursday.
The first Som look was a "bathrobe" — apparently a code word for a cozy coat — made of navy plaid flannel worn with a blue ink-blot chiffon dress. Another unexpected look was a black goat shrug, with a long, double-layer cashmere cardigan with a full boucle skirt.
Jill StuartJoan of Arc really deserves a star in the Fashion Hall of Fame.
Jill Stuart became another designer to credit the heroine for a fashion influence: "It was a sophisticated revolutionist feeling," says Stuart.
Outfits included a gray wool hooded poncho paired with a matching military-style top with gold buttons and a matching boucle skirt and a black sequined sleeveless signature catsuit with a deep V. She also applied sequins to a mini dress with a drawstring waist.
Miss SixtyGood times were rolling for Miss Sixty as the brand, which made its name in denim, sent out a full-fledged fall collection that largely got a thumbs' up from a fashion-savvy crowd that included Anne Hathaway, Chloe Sevigny and Ashley Olsen.
The theme of Sunday night's runway show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week was the free spirits of the late 1960s and early '70s, with a backdrop of old Volkswagen bugs to emphasize it. Notes from creative director Wichy Hassan highlighted Miss Sixty's commitment to sexiness, glamour and irony.
The opening look was a navy, brown and ivory strapless print dress with a tiered skirt that was worn with a beaded, fringed belt. There was an earthy sexiness to the outfit that set the tone for the rest of the show.