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Finding the perfect fit – style advice for guys

From denim to slacks to suits, TODAY style editor Bobbie Thomas offers shopping tips for men.
/ Source: TODAY

The saying goes that men are afraid of commitment. But when it comes to your wardrobe, chances are these garments will be with you for the long haul. While women purchase seasonally to keep up with trends, men’s fashion is filled with timeless, staple pieces that are meant to last, which is why finding the right fit is so important. From your standard suit to your basic blues, Bobbie Thomas, TODAY style editor and co-host of the Style Network's “Fashion Police,” shows you how to shop for classic clothing that is sure to flatter.
Basic blues 101
For most men, comfort comes first. Denim is the cornerstone of your casual attire, and also one of the most versatile pieces you can own. So master the concepts of rinse, rise and cut, and you’ll be good to go. Rinse refers to the color and how the fabric is treated. Rigid darker washes will dress denim up, while light, stretchy styles are more laid back. Women have been relying on fades and whiskers (creases in the denim that cause it to look distressed) to flatter their legs for years. Steal her style secret and use this trick to elongate your frame.  And just how low can you go? Rise is all about your waistline and can be used to create proportion. Those men with a longer torso and shorter legs should opt for a higher rise to make their legs appear longer, while those with the opposite body shape (long legs and a short torso) will want to stick with low rise styles in order to add the illusion of length to the top half of their bodies. A good rule for average body types — jeans should sit at least one to two inches below your natural waist.Now let's cut to the three general styles: slim straight, classic regular and relaxed. Slim straight is fitted in the seat, thigh and leg, while classic regular is fitted in the seat and thigh, but looser in the leg, and relaxed is just as the name implies — loose throughout. While women want to squeeze into the tightest pair possible, men tend to think, “the baggier, the better.” Please know that, while we hate to see you leave, it would be more fun to watch you walk away if you downsized. Although most men with an athletic build opt for relaxed styles, a straighter leg can actually help streamline your appearance, while loose cuts will flatter leaner legs. Last but not least, pocket placement is key, so turn around and make sure that rear view is well aligned. While some men use a billfold to make their bottoms bulkier, a stylish way to achieve this effect is with back flap pockets. Those who don’t need the extra padding should stick to flat pocket styles. Levi’s Slim Straight 514 Jean, $44-$58, levis.com; Yanuk Denim, $165, macys.comShirt and slacks
This is the look you live in, so learn to play with proportion and get a better build without hitting the gym. Here are your button-down basics — the three major don'ts: a collar that pinches your neck, cuffs that fall halfway down your hand and a baggy, loose fit that adds  five pounds. While a standard French collar looks great on almost all men, consider the width and length of the point to flatter your face shape. Men with round, square or wide faces should avoid spread collars, whereas the same style can help balance a long, narrow face. The shirt's seams should meet at the shoulder, sleeves should cover your wrists at the start of your thumbs and your cuffs should be snug enough to prevent them from slipping. Slim-fitting shirts with darts down the back can help eliminate billowing in the waist, and if you plan to be untucked, your shirt length should lie just over the top of your pockets. And if you wash and wear, account for shrinkage and launder before you tailor.The bottom line in terms of trousers? Less is not more when it comes to length. Pants should cover a quarter of your shoe, and your socks should not show when you walk. It's nice to see a break in the front with a slant toward the back, almost touching the floor. As for pleats or no pleats? Pleats will give you more room if you have an athletic build, and even balance out broad shoulders. But beware of pleats if you are leaner on top because they could make your chest look smaller. Furthermore, remember this rule: if no pleats, then no cuffs. For those on the shorter side, steer clear of pleated pants, the cuffed hem will dwarf your frame. A flat-front pant will give most men a clean, sleek line, and flatter the average body type. Grant Thomas pants, $72; Kenneth Cole Reaction shirt, $45; Johnston and Murphy belt and shoes; all available at lordandtaylor.com

Standard suit The jacket is the focal point of your suit, and the buttons will provide you with an axis to play with proportion. Maximize your build by selecting a centerpoint that balances your legs and torso. A classic two-button will help a shorter frame, while a contemporary three-button will better compliment a man who is taller. The jacket ought to cover your backside, be the same length at the front and back and the sleeves should end at the wrist bone, allowing no less than a half inch of your shirt to show.

And yes, size does matter. Narrow cut shoulders will downplay a smaller, thin face, just as broad shoulders will counterbalance a bigger head. The collar should lie flat and not bunch behind the neck. In addition, there should not be a large gap between the shirt and jacket collars. And while a taught fit looks polished, you should have enough room to move comfortably without creating tension creases.

In terms of pants, the same rules mentioned above still apply, but keep in mind your overall form. The front of the jacket and the pleats or natural crease on the pant should form one straight line. When fitting your suits, bring your wallet, blackberry, shoes and other accessories along with you. This tip will help ensure that your pockets won’t be bulging and the pants will hit your shoes at the perfect place. Suit, dress shirt, tie, belt and shoes: all BOSS Black, HugoBoss.com

One last note: If I were asked to choose, fit is more important than quality and fashion. Always make room in your budget for tailoring. A less expensive suit that fits perfectly is much more impressive than any off-the-rack designer label.