Chef notes
Whenever I say the words pappa al pomodoro, I can’t help but sing the little Italian tune that melodically hums its praises — it’s too catchy not to. I learned it while I was living in Tuscany years ago where I concurrently learned of the beauty of this very humble tomato and bread soup. Pappa al pomodoro translates to tomato pap, or tomato mush, and while that might not sound very appealing, allow me to explain. It’s a thick dish that’s not quite a soup and not quite a stew, made from tomatoes, aromatics such as onion and garlic, olive oil, basil and stale bread. This peasant dish has been around since the 19th century and is still one of the most popular items on Tuscan trattoria menus. It can be served warm, at room temperature or even chilled, and is a wonderful way to make use of leftover bread that’s gone stale.
No two Tuscans make pappa al pomodoro the same and many utilize fresh summer tomatoes. However, I always find myself craving the hearty dish in cooler months when tomatoes aren’t in season, so I’ve come to rely on a can of crushed tomatoes to make it. With such a short ingredient list, it’s important not to skimp on the simmering time. A full 30 minutes ensures the tomato sauce is rich in flavor, losing any tinned flavor from the can and taking on the nuances from the garlic and basil before the chunks of stale bread are stirred in. You also want to allow the pappa al pomodoro to rest for at least an hour before serving. The bread needs time to absorb the tomato sauce and soften, which creates a custardy mouth-feel. Stir it occasionally during this time to help the bread break up and make every spoonful as comforting as it can be.
Technique Tip: Leftovers can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 5 days.
Swap Option: If you don’t have stale bread on hand, you can dry out fresh bread by cutting it into roughly 1-inch, bite-sized pieces and baking it at 375 F until dry and pale golden brown, 6 to 8 minutes.
Ingredients
- 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
- 1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)
- ¼ cup dry white wine
- 1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes
- 2 cups water
- 2 teaspoons kosher salt
- ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more for serving
- 2 sprigs fresh basil, plus additional torn fresh leaves for serving
- 12 ounces stale rustic bread, such as a country loaf or ciabatta
Preparation
1.Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven or pot over medium heat until shimmering. Add the onion and sautè until softened and translucent, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic and sautè until fragrant, about 1 minute.
2.Add the red pepper flakes, if using, and white wine and cook, stirring occasionally, until it has almost evaporated, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the strained tomatoes, water, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil then reduce the heat to low, stir in the basil sprigs and simmer, uncovered, for 30 minutes.
3.Meanwhile, cut or tear the bread (no need to remove the crust) into roughly 1-inch, bite-sized pieces (about 6 cups).
4.Stir in the bread and then remove from heat and cover. Let sit off the heat for 1 hour, stirring occasionally, to allow the bread to absorb the liquid and the soup to become the texture of thick oatmeal. Remove and discard the basil sprigs. Serve warm or at room temperature, garnished with olive oil, torn basil and pepper.
