In Trentino, this lively condiment of cooked apples and fresh horseradish is served with boiled beef, poached chicken, and all kinds of roasts.
It's great with many of the dishes in this chapter, especially the beer-braised chicken and beef and the fried and baked potato-celery root canederli.
Since it is so easy to make in large volume, I serve it with roast turkey or ham at the holidays, and I hope you will, too.
Cream is customary in the salsa (it counters the sharpness of the horseradish), but the flavor is good without it.
And you can use more or less horseradish to suit your taste for its pungency.
You will need a heavy 3-or-4-quart saucepan, with a cover and a potato masher.
Put the apple chunks in the saucepan, and toss with the lemon juice and salt.
Cover the pan, and set it over medium-low heat.
Cook the apples slowly for 15 minutes or so, stirring now and then, as they soften and release their juices.
Remove the cover, raise the heat to bring the juices to a boil, and cook for 10 minutes or more, until the juices are syrupy and the apples very soft.
Turn off the heat.
Meanwhile, peel the horseradish and grate it into fine shreds, until you have at least ½ cup for a milder salsa, or a cup (or more) for greater pungency.
With the potato masher, mash the apples in the saucepan to make a uniform, chunky sauce.
Stir in the grated horseradish and cream, and turn into a serving bowl.
Serve warm or cold.