Chef notes
Esquites exist in every part of México, but there was one town that seems to have not only the most esquites stands, but also the biggest variety of flavors and toppings of any place I visited. Bernal in the state of Querétaro is best known for having one of the largest natural monoliths in the world, the Peña de Bernal. My friends and I had driven to Bernal to hike to the top (1,421 feet) and sample the food fromt he stands lining the path to the Peña.
The esquites stands were everywhere. Each one had between six and 12 cazuelas of esquites cooking over open fires, each clay pot filled with different vegetables, herbs and spices. The smell as you approached each stand revealed the sazón of each cook; the colors were vivid and rich. And the flavors — estilo pozole con guajillo, poblano mole verde, mantequilla, habanero, amarillo dulce and asado con epazote y chile serrano — were the most common, but each cook had their own favorites and interpretations. This is mine.
Think of my recipe as your base to which you can add tomatoes or tomatillos for color and tang, switch out the chile de árbol for your favorite chile (dried or fresh), add meat or keep it plant-based. The main thing is to have fun with it and make it your own.
Ingredients
- 4 tablespoons unsalted butter or extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 medium poblano chile, stemmed, seeded and chopped
- 1/4 medium white onion, chopped
- 2 cloves garlic, finely grated
- 4 chiles de árbol, stems and seeds intact
- 4 cups fresh corn kernels (about 4 large ears)
- 3 sprigs fresh epazote or a combination of fresh parsley, oregano and/or mint sprigs
- 1 teaspoon sea salt
- 1/3 cup crema or sour cream
- 1/3 cup queso fresco or cotija cheese, crumbled
- mayonnaise, crushed chiles de árbol, lime wedges and chopped cilantro, to serve (optional)
Preparation
1.In a large skillet over medium-high heat, melt the butter. Cook the poblano, onion, garlic and chiles de árbol, tossing occasionally, until the onion is tender and just beginning to brown, for 6 to 8 minutes.
2.Add the corn, epazote and salt, and cook, tossing occasionally, until the corn is cooked through and just beginning to brown, for 6 to 8 minutes.
3.Serve the esquites warm with a drizzle of crema and a sprinkle of queso fresco and other desired toppings.
Reprinted with permission from "Mi Cocina: Recipes and Rapture from My Kitchen in Mexico" by Rick Martínez, copyright© 2022. Published by Clarkson Potter/Publishers, an imprint of Penguin Random House.
