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Looks for spring: metallic sheen, high waists

Kors brings effortless chic, Tam goes floral at Fall Fashion Week
/ Source: The Associated Press

Naomi Campbell opened Anna Sui’s fashion show carrying a parasol and wearing a blue, pink and white chiffon dress with spaghetti straps. She finished in an Art Deco sequined evening dress.

So went the twists and turns of Sui’s spring collection, which was a little less campy than usual — but also a little more wearable.

“Her clothes are sweet and girlie, and I’d wear every piece I’m wearing in the show,” said model Carolyn Murphy, who returned to the catwalk after a three-year hiatus.

Wednesday’s shows during New York Fashion Week showcased the emerging seasonal trends: tiered skirts, metallics, vests, washed fabrics and higher waists.

Murphy’s outfits at the Sui show included a satin chiffon handkerchief hem dress in a blue scallop shawl print, a sheer smock dress with lace and a matching black slip, and a pleated dress with an empire waist and rows of alternating paisley prints.

A metallic brocade coat worn with matching cropped pants and a platinum sequined halter gave Sui’s traditional touch of rock-n-roll glam. But women might not be as eager to put on cowgirl boots with a chiffon top and Bermuda shorts or leggings under a chiffon dress. Those are looks for the runway, not the real world.

The look at Michael Kors was . Standouts included a washed cotton safari shirt paired with a metallic olive duchesse bustle skirt, an olive jersey dress with a suede collar, and a long cashmere cardigan over a slip dress.

Kors explained in his notes that he was influenced by “South by Southwest, the optimism of an endless horizon and blue skies ahead.”

Suze Yalof Schwartz, Glamour’s executive fashion editor at large, described Kors’ collection as “impeccably chic” yet cozy.

“His girl is on vacation — always on vacation,” Schwartz said. “Michael lets you fantasize that you’re in those clothes and in those great places.”

Channeling BaliVivienne Tam had 1960s icon Edie Sedgwick in mind when she created a spring look that had the flowers of Bali, including orchids and lilies, with beatnik cool.

Her white peony applique chiffon shirt was one of the lightest and airiest versions of a popular look to emerge for next season. She also did a trendy skirt suit, this one with a cropped jacket and an A-line skirt, which had the structure of a traditional suit but was softened by its khaki linen fabric.

Handicraft work was another important detail, seen in almost every collection. Tam’s take resulted in a particularly cool outfit: a strapless dress and matching coat made of embroidered teal ribbons. Another noteworthy outfit was a beaded chiffon dress and beaded coat made of a lilac-and-navy floral cotton.

Nanette Lepore presented cropped jackets, knee-length skirts and belts that, like Kors, referenced the Southwest. The colors were mostly bold yellows, reds and greens, softened with ivory.

The finale look was the spiciest. It paired a red dress with ruffles and cap sleeves with matching red peek-a-boo heels.

Fashion week runs through Friday, with Vera Wang, Calvin Klein, Zac Posen, Ralph Lauren and Donna Karan still to come.