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Ralph Lauren's world: refined and relaxed

The intersection of sportswear and elegance happens on the Ralph Lauren runway. It gives him a place on the American fashion scene like no one else.
/ Source: The Associated Press

The intersection of sportswear and elegance happens on the Ralph Lauren runway. It gives him a place on the American fashion scene like no one else.

The spring collection he debuted Thursday on the closing day of New York Fashion Week was in keeping with the chic look that consumers expect from him. He also didn't disappoint the fashion editors, retailers and stylists who look forward to a moment of refinement and calm after scores of previews for next season.

Feminine dresses with a hint of ruffle in a floral print, optic white menswear suits, luxe liquidlike fabrics and Deco beading were all part of Lauren's reimagining of 1920s styles.

Lauren showed great skill in balancing simple shapes the hardest thing to do well — with glamorous details: an ostrich feather scarf here or beaded bag there.

The ivory skirt suit with a hammered-satin tank top, accessorized with an embroidered linen clutch bag and ivory sandal is a lot harder to pull off than something dripping with decoration.

"He's so renowned for desirable, memorable and modern clothes," said Glenda Bailey, editor-in-chief of Harper's Bazaar.

Virginia Smith, fashion market director at Vogue, added: "It's sort of Ralph Lauren's world and we're living in it."

She especially liked the gowns — the knockout floral lame and the off-the-shoulder goddess style — among them. "They were a tour de force."

The catwalk featured more dressy styles than Lauren has recently turned out.

Olivia Wilde had the coveted seat next to the Lauren family, who always gathers en masse in the front row. She seemed to show particular interest in the robin's egg-blue georgette dress with beading on one hip.

How fast can the Lauren team get that gown on the plane for Sunday's Emmy Awards?