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Fennel: A savory choice that is surprisingly sweet

Licorice as a Thanksgiving flavor? Kind of, and it's surprisingly good.
/ Source: The Associated Press

Licorice as a Thanksgiving flavor? Kind of, and it's surprisingly good.

It's easier — and more delicious — than you might think. That's because fennel, as both a seed and a vegetable, can lend a delicate and even sweet anise flavor to the meal from soup to dessert and every dish in between.

Thinly shaved, the bright white bulb of raw fennel becomes a crisp, bracing salad or creamy slaw. Braised, it mellows and sweetens, adding depth to dishes like such as mashed potatoes. Roasted, fennel turns caramel brown and sweet as candy, and simmered in a stock it offers complexity that outstrips other aromatics.

"The great thing about fennel and all anise flavors is they are so kind to other flavors," says Niki Segnit, author of "The Flavor Thesaurus." "They always make everything taste a little bit more expensive."

Fennel seeds are both grassy and sweet. Added to savory ingredients — sweet Italian sausage is a classic — they add a pop of palate-cleansing lightness. Sprinkled over sweet items, such as roasted carrots, their crunch cuts through the sugar with a delicate spray of anise. Ground into a spice rub, they make the other flavors sing.

"They're punchy," says Andrew Dornenburg, co-author of "The Flavor Bible" and "What to Drink with What You Eat." "Fennel seed will bring out those extra notes."

Fennel has long been recognized as a digestive (and a breath freshener). In India, diners chomp on the seeds after a meal. In Italy, fennel bulb is served as a final nibble, sometimes with orange or dried fruits. In the United States, people often serve shaved fennel salad, sometimes at the end of the meal.

"The Thanksgiving menu can be so heavy," says Karen Page, Dornenburg's co-author. "Having that fennel salad really gives you a respite."

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FENNEL SAUSAGE CORNBREAD STUFFING

Slice and saute until tender the white parts of 2 leeks and 1 fennel bulb in 2 tablespoons of butter. Add 14 ounces of loose sweet Italian fennel sausage meat and saute until browned and cooked through. Stir in a 12-ounce bag of cornbread stuffing and 1 1/2 cups halved red grapes. Proceed with baking the stuffing according to package directions. Serves 8.

Nutrition information per serving (values are rounded to the nearest whole number): 360 calories; 130 calories from fat (37 percent of total calories); 15 g fat (5 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 35 mg cholesterol; 44 g carbohydrate; 13 g protein; 6 g fiber; 1,190 mg sodium.

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SEEDED GLAZED CARROTS

Cut 2 pounds of carrots into 1/2-inch chunks. Melt 3 tablespoons butter in a large deep skillet. Add the carrots and stir to coat. Season with salt, pepper and 1 tablespoon of fennel seed, then cook over medium heat, covered, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes or until browned and tender. Add 3 tablespoons of honey and stir to coat. Serves 6.

Nutrition information per serving (values are rounded to the nearest whole number): 150 calories; 60 calories from fat (36 percent of total calories); 6 g fat (4 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 15 mg cholesterol; 24 g carbohydrate; 2 g protein; 5 g fiber; 190 mg sodium.

(Recipes by Alison Ladman)