THIS WEEK: Wild-caught Texas shrimp with ‘biscuits and gravy’ from chef Randy Evans of Brennan's of Houston in Houston, Texas.
Chef Randy Evans has offered some Southern hospitality to our readers by allowing us to steal his recipe for wild-caught Texas shrimp with “biscuits and gravy” — a delicious concoction served up nightly at Brennan’s of Houston, where Randy is executive chef. Brennan’s has been tantalizing Houston’s taste buds with Creole-inspired dishes “with a hint of Texas” for more than 40 years!
The recipe calls for “Texas 1015 onions,” which are the first fresh onions harvested each year with a mild, juicy and “supersweet” taste (you can substitute any sweet onion if you’re unable to find these). The recipe also uses a strainer that everyone might not be familiar with — a chinois strainer is conical in shape with an extra-fine mesh and a wooden pestle, resulting in a very smooth emulsion. Finally, celery brunoise is a fine dice in an approximate one-eighth of an inch cube.
About the chef: Chef Randy Evans was born and raised in Texas and grew up near his grandfather’s farm, eating the freshest produce and vegetables and watching his mother bake countless country desserts, but did not foresee himself becoming a chef. Instead, he studied biology at Baylor University for five semesters, planning to become a doctor like his sister, but, after hosting numerous dinner parties and bragging about his latest antique cookbook find to friends, he discovered that the kitchen was where he truly belonged.
Often driving out during the day to hand-pick his produce from the vine, soil or the back of a purveyor’s truck, chef Evans is always eager to present the maximum flavor and freshness of his dishes to guests each evening.
One of the best ways he showcases this commitment is with his famed six-course tasting menu, which changes every week. His passion and talent for capturing exquisite flavors also extends to canning his own jellies and jams, which include: Meyer Lemon Marmalade and Jelly; Mayhaw Jelly; Satsuma Marmalade and Jelly; Tomato Jalapeño Jelly; White Pepper Strawberry Preserves; Prickly Pear Jelly; Peach Preserves; Pickled Green Tomatoes; Jalapeño Bread and Butter Pickle and more.
Chef Evans’ other main interest lies in the art of charcuterie, the French designation for “cooker of meats.” His extensive travels throughout Europe have allowed him to sample the comfort foods of many cultures, providing food for thought in his charcuterie work in Brennan’s kitchen.
Wild-caught Texas shrimp with “biscuits and gravy” is served at Brennan’s for $15. This recipe makes six restaurant servings.
3300 Smith Street
Houston, Texas 77006
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