When it comes to soy sauce, its pretty safe to say that most Americans’ first experiences (and tastes) occurred at a Chinese or Japanese restaurant, but for me, it was as a young teen ripping open a tiny plastic pouch with my teeth. At the time, the dark brown odd tasting sauce didn’t become one of my favorite condiments. Years later, when I learned just how great the flavor could be, especially when mixed with wasabi, it became a staple in my kitchen.
For soy sauce lovers, the types to buy are tamari and shoyu. These are products made from soybeans that have been intentionally fermented and aged for several months or even up to a year. Tamari infuses its distinct, strong bite into food; shoyu enhances flavors of seasonings added to food with its milder taste. The difference in them is significant in complexity of flavor and aroma, and how they bring out the flavors of the foods made with them. Both are good in marinades and salad dressing or to grill food or as a condiment. The topline is that brands vary so much that it does pay to experiment. I’ve had to buy several brands to see which ones intrigued my palate the most and for which use.
Shoyu is made from soybeans with roasted wheat, sea salt and koji (aspergillus orzae), a mold spore that contributes to the fermentation process. The koji enzymes break down the protein into amino acids and carbohydrates, then simple sugar. It should taste toasty, a little edge of caramel, and have complex flavors that are clean, vivid and not overpowering. Shoyu is best used for stir frying or seasoning vegetables because it does not overpower foods.
Tamari was originally the thick brown liquid that settled in the bottom of the casks where soybean miso is fermented. For centuries, this unique tamari soy sauce was a delicacy and very expensive. Today, however, tamari is readily available, and is brewed from whole soybeans, sea salt, water and koji (aspergillus hacho). It has no wheat, so it is an excellent condiment for those with wheat allergies. It should have a distinct savory taste, round and smooth without the bite of cheaper brands. Although the salt flavor is there, it appears more as a background taste than an overpowering one on the tongue. Tamari, which is naturally strong in taste, is better used in baked dishes, soups and stews.
Commercial soy sauces are made from soybeans that have been defatted with a petroleum derivative called hexane, and the fermentation is speeded up artificially. The sauces may even include genetically-engineered enzymes or hydrochloric acid-treated soy isolate, sugar and additional salt. Some light versions contain alcohol for freshness (Yamasa lite) or sugar and/or corn syrup to balance the lack of sodium (La Choy).
Naturally-brewed tamari and shoyu sauces contain no sugars, no excessive sodium and have a rounded full-bodied flavor. Some commercial soy sauces are more like caramel-colored saltwater and can have up to 1320 m. per tablespoon of sodium, although the average hovers around 900 mg. If traditionally-brewed selections are used, they are suitable as a salt substitute, although people with hypertension should not use it without first consulting a physician.
What to look for
Look for the words “traditionally brewed” or natural or organic. Careful manufacturers tend to age the sauces for up to two years in cedar casks. Check the Asian and organic food sections for the best-quality tamari and shoyu soy sauces. Make sure that you store both opened and unopened bottles in a cool dark cupboard. There is no need to refrigerate them.
Phil Lempert is food editor of the “Today” show. He welcomes questions and comments, which can be sent to phil.lempert@nbc.com or by using the mail box below. For more about the latest trends on the supermarket shelves, visit Phil’s Web site at .