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Totalbeauty.com
Most of those claims? Totally bogus. Find out how to better read your makeup labels.
updated 4/25/2012 9:52:09 AM ET 2012-04-25T13:52:09

"Oil free!"

"Natural!"

"Long-lasting!"

Chances are you've seen these phrases on makeup labels — and maybe you've been persuaded to buy something because of these claims. Unfortunately, most of them don't mean a whole lot — and even the ones that are technically accurate can still be misleading.

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That's partly because the FDA does not regulate what goes into cosmetics. And while there are guidelines for labeling, there's no review process in place. So it's our responsibility to see through the label lingo and understand what we're putting on our faces.

We talked to experts — from dermatologists to manufacturers — to find out what we really need to know when reading a makeup label. Here, we're decoding what the claims on makeup labels mean to make it easier to understand what you're really putting on your face.

Nobody really needs 'oil-free'
Most people who are prone to breakouts are adamant about only wearing oil-free foundation and concealer because they think oil will make their breakouts worse. And now many beauty companies are making oil-free versions of just about everything — even blush and eyeshadow — to appeal to these women. However, most dermatologists agree that having "oil-free" emblazoned on the label is mostly a marketing trick.

In fact, if you turn over your bottle of oil-free makeup, you may very well find oils on the list of ingredients. Companies substitute synthetic oils for natural versions in order to call the product oil-free -— and the irony is many of the synthetic oils are actually more likely to irritate your face.

"The key is looking for the word 'noncomedogenic' or 'nonacnegenic' on the label," explains Washington D.C. dermatologist Dr. Elizabeth Tanzi. These terms indicate that the product will neither clog pores nor cause zits. While acne sufferers tend to avoid all oils, Tanzi stresses there are certain oils that are actually beneficial. Tea tree oil kills bacteria, and lavender oil is an antiseptic with anti-inflammatory properties.

Just because you see SPF doesn't mean you're safe
It's fantastic that so many companies are adding sunscreen to makeup — we can all benefit from more daily SPF. But there are two very different kinds of sunscreen ingredients —chemical and physical — that work in opposite ways. Physical sunblock acts as a barrier on your skin to reflect UV rays. Meanwhile, chemical ingredients absorb UV rays and create skin-damaging free radicals.

"I'm a big advocate of physical sunscreens," says Tanzi. "My number one choice is zinc oxide, followed by titanium dioxide." If you're prone to breakouts, titanium dioxide may make them worse, but zinc oxide is an excellent choice.

Even if your makeup contains zinc oxide, you shouldn't rely on it as your only form of sun protection. Dermatologists recommend applying a teaspoon of SPF 30 or higher to your face — and no one should be wearing that much foundation. The ultimate regimen is an antioxidant serum, followed by a teaspoon of sunscreen, and then your makeup.

More from TotalBeauty.com:
10 Things a Makeup Counter Doesn't Want You to Know
11 Makeup Colors That Work on Everyone
10 Secrets I Learned at Makeup School

'Natural' means nothing
Of all the confusion in the beauty aisle, organic and natural products might be the worst offenders. "FDA requirements say you only have to use 20 percent natural ingredients to say that a product is natural," says Tyler Hanson, founder of Mineral Hygienics. "So the other 80 percent? Who knows?" If it's important to you that your makeup is truly organic, make sure the label specifies that the contents are "USDA-certified organic." And research the products through organizations like the Natural Products Association and The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics.

You may also want to consider whether or not natural is the best thing for your skin. "Just because something is organic or natural doesn't mean it won't irritate your skin," says Tanzi. "Lemon and orange oil are two of the most common irritants found in beauty products -- and that's true even if they're organic." If you have allergies, always do a patch test on the inside of your wrist before slathering an organic cream on your skin.

'Anti-aging' ingredients don't really work
So many makeup products are now calling out skin care benefits — like anti-aging and anti-acne — on their packaging. Unfortunately, smoothing wrinkles isn't as simple as adding a fine-line-fighting ingredient to a foundation.

"You can get anti-acne benefits from makeup that contains salicylic acid," says Tanzi. "But anti-aging ingredients? Not so much. And you're better off saving your anti-aging for nighttime anyway." (Many anti-aging ingredients are photosensitive and break down in sunlight.) While Tanzi recommends using makeup with built-in SPF to supplement your sunblock, she says that antioxidants in makeup aren't going to be particularly effective. "They're better delivered through a serum worn underneath your moisturizer," she says.

Fragrance-free products may contain fragrances
If you don't like strong smells, fragrance-free is a great option for you. However, if you're buying fragrance-free products because you're allergic or sensitive to fragrances, you may still end up with a reaction. "A lot of companies add masking fragrances to cover the scent of other ingredients — and the FDA doesn't require that these masking fragrances be included on the ingredient list," says Laura Verallo de Bertotto, CEO of VMV Hypoallergenics. While the term hypoallergenic means that a product has only a small chance of causing an allergic reaction, if you're prone to reacting you should always do a patch test when trying something new.

Long-wearing is not the same as waterproof
There's something so enticing about makeup that makes claims like it lasts for "24 hours." We're all busy — who wouldn't want makeup that could survive every obstacle we might face during the day? However, if you plan to jump in the pool while wearing your long-lasting makeup, know that it will be dripping down your face when you get out. These formulations are not the same as waterproof — but they're perfect for someone whose eyeliner tends to be smudged by lunchtime.

'Dermatologist tested' doesn't mean dermatologist endorsed
Just because a dermatologist tested a product doesn't mean he or she liked the product. It's a semantic trick, and the phrase is basically meaningless.

More from TotalBeauty.com:
10 Things a Makeup Counter Doesn't Want You to Know
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Photos: One makeup artist’s daily makeover project

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  1. The Daily Face

    By Rina Raphael

    Putting on one’s daily makeup is hard enough. Now imagine coming up with a new look every day.

    But that’s just what Annamarie Tendler, 26, did on her popular blog. The creative makeup artist, who noticed a lack of simple and approachable beauty blogs, challenged herself to post a few new makeup tutorials a week in March 2011."

    “I wanted to make something that didn't inundate the viewer with information, but rather offered up a simple concept in a simple way,” Tendler told TODAY.com. “As in, here is a look, this is how you do it, this is what you use.”

    The tutorials range from practical (“how to curl your eyelashes) to wild (a Lichtenstein-inspired look for Halloween), and the work can often be exhausting. “I need to be generating so much material and I'm only one person, who also works on other shoots and projects,” said Tendler. “I find that every couple of months I need to take a two week break."

    Surprisingly, Tendler isn’t even a makeup junkie. Her personal regimen is “extremely simple,” consisting of not much more than Josie Maran Argan Oil moisturizer. But after posting dozens of makeup applications, she does have one beauty she recommends to all women: “Wear mascara.”

    Click through some of Annamarie’s favorite looks: (Annamarie Tendler) Back to slideshow navigation
  2. Apr. 13, 2011

    "I was inspired to do today’s look when looking at Brassai photos of the 20s," Tendler wrote. "Everyone looks so cool and glamorous."

    Under-eyes: Make Up For Ever HD Concealer in 325
    Eyeliner: MAC Blacktrack gel liner

    Eye shadow: NARS in Galapagos, Make Up For Ever in Aqua Cream 15, MAC in Satin Taupe

    Eyebrows: The Body Shop black eye pencil

    Eyelashes: False lashes by Mattesse on top (#1565) and bottom (#49)

    Cheeks: MAC in Harmony

    Lips: NARS Shanghai Express

    See the full tutorial (Annamarie Tendler) Back to slideshow navigation
  3. July 14, 2011

    "The best way to wear bright lipstick is with almost no other makeup. I used no liner for this look, only a wash of bamboo-colored shadow (a light brown) over my lids (diffused above the crease) and a ton of mascara."

    Under-eyes: Make Up For Ever HD Concealer in 325

    Eyeshadow: MAC in Bamboo

    Eyebrows: MAC in Fling

    Eyelashes: Lancome Hypnose Drama

    Cheeks: MAC in Harmony

    Lips: NARS in Schiap

    See the full tutorial (Annamarie Tendler) Back to slideshow navigation
  4. Aug. 12, 2011

    "Red seems like a weird choice for eyeliner, since most people don’t want to look like sleep-deprived junkies, but it works as a bold liquid liner. Also, by coupling it with bold brows, you will achieve a defined look, instead of it looking like you might have allergies."

    Under-eyes: Make Up For Ever HD Concealer in 325

    Eyeliner: Blacktrack, Make Up For Ever Aqua Eye liner in shade 10 (red)

    Eyebrows: The Body Shop eye pencil in black

    Eyelashes: Lancome Hypnose Drama

    Cheeks: MAC in Harmony, MAC Highlighter in Pearl

    See the full tutorial (Annamarie Tendler) Back to slideshow navigation
  5. Aug. 23, 2011

    "This is definitely something I’ll have to experiment with at a dark, nighttime party."

    Under-eyes: Make Up For Ever HD Concealer in 325

    Eyeliner: NARS liquid liner pencil

    Eyeshadow: MAC in Copperplate, NARS pencil in HollywoodLand

    Eyebrows: Make Up For Ever Aqua Eyes in shade 21 (teal)

    Eyelashes: Lancome Hypnose Drama

    Cheeks: NARS in Penny Lane

    See the full tutorial (Annamarie Tendler) Back to slideshow navigation
  6. Oct. 18, 2011

    "I will warn anyone who tries this [Roy Lichtenstein-inspired look] out that pulling this one off if a lot like cleaning your bedroom: it looks worse before it looks good."

    Face: Ben Nye Creme Color in White

    Dots: Ben Nye Creme Color in Red

    Tears: Ben Nye Creme Color in Blue, Cosmic Blue, and White

    Eyeliner: MAC Blacktrack

    Eyelashes: Lancome Hypnose Drama

    Lips: NARS Lipstick in Heat Wave

    See the full tutorial (Annamarie Tendler) Back to slideshow navigation
  7. Nov. 21, 2011

    "This is a great party look because it’s dark, goes with anything, and you feel festive without being over the top. Yeah, you don’t need to wear green eyeshadow and red lipstick to get the point across that you love Christmas."

    Under-eyes: Make Up For Ever HD Concealer in 325

    Eyeliner: MAC Fluidline in Blacktrack

    Eye shadow: Benefit Creaseless Cream Shadow in Strut, Make Up For Ever Flash Color in Silver

    Eyebrows: MAC Eye Brow Pencil in Fling

    Eyelashes: Dior Blackout

    See the full tutorial (Annamarie Tendler) Back to slideshow navigation
  8. Nov. 28, 2011

    "I probably wouldn’t wear my makeup like this out on the street, but it’s definitely a look that can be modified for everyday wear."

    Under-eyes: Make Up For Ever HD Concealer in 325

    Eyeliner: MAC Fluidline in Blacktrack, Make Up For Ever Aqua Liner in Shade 10 (red)

    Eye shadow: NARS Duo in Scorching Sun, MAC Goldenrod, MAC Goldmine

    Eyebrows: MAC Eye Brow Pencil in Fling

    Eyelashes: Dior Blackout

    Lips: NARS Lipstick in Heatwave

    See the full tutorial (Annamarie Tendler) Back to slideshow navigation
  9. Dec. 19, 2011

    "This is more of a dark look. I started by lining the eyes with Blacktrack, including both the upper and lower inner rims and winging the liner."

    Under-eyes: Make Up For Ever HD Concealer in 325

    Eyeliner: MAC Fluidline in Blacktrack, Make Up For Ever Aqua Eyes Pencil in shade 10L (gold)

    Eye shadow: Make Up For Ever Aqua Cream in Shade 15, MAC Shadow in Satin Taupe, NARS Duo in Cordura, MAC Highlighter in Pearl

    Eyebrows: MAC Eye Brow Pencil in Fling

    Eyelashes: Lancome Hypnose Drama

    Cheeks: MAC Blush in Harmony

    See the full tutorial (Annamarie Tendler) Back to slideshow navigation
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  1. Annamarie Tendler
    Above: Slideshow (9) One makeup artist’s daily makeover project
  2. Image: 84th Annual Academy Awards - Arrivals
    Ethan Miller / Getty Images
    Slideshow (15) The best of bold brows

Video: 4 beauty rules you should break

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