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Video: Try ‘potato-less’ gnocchi for dinner

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    >>> this morning in today's kitchen we're going back to basics with a twist on classic italian dishes. from a warm and hearty potatoless gnocchi, we are enriching their flavors. coleman andrews is author of the country cooking of italy . great to see you.

    >> good to be here.

    >> your parents were french-canadian, scottish and.i how do you write an italian book cook?

    >> my mother was a terrible cook. i was 15 before i knew beef wasn't gray inside.

    >> i don't want to get in trouble.

    >> don't stand too close. it took me 40 years to research the book, i like to say. 40 years of going back and forth to italy and eating great italian food .

    >> we'll do the twist. no potatoes in the gnocchi. it's made with squash?

    >> winter squash . this is butter nut squash, banana squash. any winter squash . potatoes are a fairly recent addition to gnocchi. you can make it with all kinds of stuff. bake it, scoop it out. add flour.

    >> that holds it together.

    >> add plenty of salt, two eggs and a cup of flour. you can do it with a fork or a potato masher . we have to work in the flour.

    >> you end up with --

    >> something that looks like this. then take a spoon. these aren't neat little rounded gnocchi. they are supposeded to be rustic.

    >> you're going to pop them in boiling water ?

    >> boiling, salted water. we have nice ones made up here. they are supposed to be irregular like this.

    >> do they cook quickly?

    >> one to two minutes. as soon as they rise to the top, they are cooked.

    >> if you overcook them, do they dry out?

    >> they'll fall apart. when they bob to the top, take them out. meantime you start with the sauce.

    >> this is sausage?

    >> ground veal and ground pork with onion. the secret ingredient for italian meat sauces.

    >> what is it?

    >> chicken liver .

    >> if i hadn't told uh you, you wouldn't know and you would love it. we have home made tomato sauce if possible. cook it down until it looks like this.

    >> you won't taste the chicken liver in there, right?

    >> don't worry. you're safe.

    >> don't toss it or the gnocchi will fall apart. spoon it on top. cheese if you like.

    >> perfect.

    >> this is orechiette with broccoli rabe and it is not broccoli.

    >> it's a relative of the tur turnip. it means little eerars and they look like ears if you have weird, round little ears. cook them right in the same pot. it's very efficient, environmentally correct.

    >> what's simmering here?

    >> olive oil and anchovies.

    >> i can smell it.

    >> you don't like them?

    >> i'm not crazy about it but they get lost in there.

    >> you want plenty of nice oil. instead of grated cheese , bread crumbs . the people of the part of italy where this comes from were so poor they often couldn't afford cheese. they would have dried out bread. they would grate it, use it instead of cheese.

    >> for dessert, olive oil cake.

    >> beautiful. every part of italy that grows olives makes olive oil cake.

    >> good to have you here. the book is "the country

TODAY recipes
updated 1/30/2012 4:10:23 PM ET 2012-01-30T21:10:23

Recipe: Winter squash gnocchi with meat sauce

Ingredients
  • 1 small acorn or butternut squash, 1 to 1 1/2 pounds/500 to 750 grams, quartered and seeded
  • 2 eggs
  • Salt
  • 1 cup/125 grams flour, plus more for dusting
  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 onion, chopped
  • 1/2 pound/250 grams ground/minced pork
  • 1/2 pound/250 grams ground/minced veal
  • 2 or 3 chicken livers, trimmed and minced
  • Pepper
  • 3 cups/720 milliliters tomato sauce, homemade or commercial
Preparation

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F/175 degrees C/gas 5. Put the squash, cut side up, into a baking pan and cover the pan with aluminum foil. Bake until soft, about 1 hour. Remove the squash from the oven. When it is cool enough to handle, scrape out the flesh into a sieve and, with the back of a wooden spoon, press out as much liquid as possible. Put the squash into a large bowl, add the eggs and plenty of salt, and mash with a fork or a potato masher. Add the flour and work it into the mixture to form a thick, soft dough. (Add a bit more flour if the dough doesn't stick together.)

Generously dust a work surface with flour. Using a tablespoon, form the dough into oval gnocchi, putting them on the floured surface as they are formed. Let them sit while you proceed to the next step. Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion, pork, veal, and chicken livers, break up the ground meats with a wooden spoon, and season generously with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are very soft and the meats are browned, about 20 minutes.

Drain the onion mixture in a colander or sieve, then return it to the frying pan and add the tomato sauce. Reduce the heat to low and simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened, about 20 minutes more. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Working in batches, add the gnocchi to the pot and cook until they rise to the surface, 1 to 2 minutes. As the gnocchi are done, remove them from the pot with a slotted spoon and transfer them to a warmed serving bowl. When all the gnocchi are cooked, spoon the sauce over them, but do not toss.

Serving Size

Serves 4 to 6

Recipe: Orecchiette with broccoli rabe

Ingredients
  • 1/2 pound/250 grams broccoli rabe, finely chopped
  • Salt
  • 1 pound/500 grams orecchiette
  • 1/2 cup/120 milliliters extra-virgin olive oil
  • 6 anchovy fillets, minced
  • Pepper
  • Grated ricotta salata or toasted bread crumbs, homemade or commercial, for serving
Preparation

Put the broccoli rabe into a large pot of salted cold water. Bring the water to a boil over medium-high heat. When it is boiling, raise the heat to high and add the orecchiette. Cook until the pasta is al dente, 8 to 12 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat together the oil and anchovy fillets in a small pan over medium heat. When the pasta is ready, drain it and the greens and transfer them to a warmed serving bowl. Pour the anchovy oil over the top and season generously with pepper; if necessary, add a little salt. Pass the cheese at the table.

Serving Size

Serves 4 to 6

Recipe: Olive oil cake

Ingredients
  • 3/4 cups/180 milliliters extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for greasing
  • 3 cups/375 grams flour, plus more for dusting
  • 4 eggs
  • 1 cup/200 grams sugar
  • 1 tablespoon grated orange zest
  • 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
  • 1/3 cup/80 milliliters whole milk
  • 1/3 cup/80 milliliters heavy/double cream
  • 2 tablespoons baking powder
Preparation

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F/160 degrees C/gas 3. Lightly oil a 10- to 12- inch/ 25- to 30-centimeter bundt pan or angel-food cake pan, then dust with flour, shaking off the excess by turning the pan upside down and gently banging it several times on a countertop.

Combine the eggs and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and beat on medium-high speed until pale yellow, about 1 minute. Add the flour, orange and lemon zest, oil, milk, and cream and mix on low speed until well combined. Add the baking powder and mix in thoroughly.

Spoon the batter into the prepared pan, smoothing the top with the back of a wooden spoon. Bake the cake until the top is golden brown and a wooden skewer inserted into the center comes out clean, 35 to 40 minutes. Let the cake cool completely in the pan on a rack before unmolding and serving. 

Serving Size

Serves 8 to 10

Recipe: Pomegranate sorbetto

Ingredients
  • 12 to 14 very ripe pomegranates or 3 cups/720 milliliters pure pomegranate juice
  • 3/4 cup/150 grams sugar
Preparation

If extracting your own juice, roll the pomegranates one at a time on the kitchen counter, pressing down firmly and rolling them to crush the interiors evenly. When all the pomegranates have been treated this way, hold a pomegranate over a medium bowl, puncture it with a sharp knife, and squeeze it firmly to extract all the juice. Repeat with the remaining pomegranates. Strain the juice and discard any seeds that have emerged, or save them for another use.

Combine 3 cups/720 milliliters pomegranate juice and 1 cup/240 milliliters cold water in a large saucepan over low heat. Stir in the sugar, raise the heat to medium-low, and bring just to a boil, stirring constantly. When the sugar has dissolved, remove the pan from the heat. Let cool to room temperature, then transfer to a bowl, cover, and refrigerate for at least 3 hours to chill thoroughly.

Pour into an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer's instructions. The sorbet will keep in the freezer, in a tightly sealed container, for at least 1 month, but it is best made to order and eaten fresh.

Serving Size

Makes 1 quart/1 liter

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