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Video: Comfort food classics redefined

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    >>> kitchen, back to basics" redefining classic fall comfort foods . here to help us is chris campbell, host of "america's test kitchen " and one of the authors of the new "cook's illustrated" cookbook. chris great always to have you.

    >> pleasure to be here.

    >> you'll tell us how we can take some of our favorite comfort foods and make them better, including french fries , chicken and chocolate chip cookies .

    >> you look nervous like i'm not going to do it.

    >> no, because i thought they were pretty good as they were.

    >> you can fry a chicken and roast a chicken and bake a chicken . you look a little nervous this is poule en coucot.

    >> it's a french chicken . you're saying the french chicken is better than the other chicken ?

    >> it's better. throw it in the pot, cook it in the oven for an hour and a half. we started with browning the chicken first.

    >> the whole chicken ?

    >> the whole thing.

    >> put a small onion in with it. this is stupidly simple. even i can do it. cloves of garlic, rosemary and bay leaf .

    >> some pepper. you didn't put any oil in there.

    >> a little bit of oil in the pan to start?

    >> olive oil ? okay, that's it.

    >> then take some aluminum foil , put this on top.

    >> so none of the steam escapes.

    >> low it in the oven, even heat. when the dark meat is down it gets cooked at the same time the white meat and this is incredibly healthy and delicious and makes its own sauce.

    >> that's it.

    >> you're done.

    >> the vegetables cook down. and healthy and delicious.

    >> how long in the offen?

    >> an hour and 50 minutes.

    >> easy for the mother who is running after her kids and there you go.

    >> or the father.

    >> or the father, good for you. i like the way you think.

    >> yes.

    >> we call that again?

    >> poule en concot.

    >> okay, we'll slice a little bit.

    >> the best way to carve a chicken , i took the leg off and the thigh, take the breast like this and use a flexible knife and take the breast off in one piece like this.

    >> okay. so basically boom.

    >> so what you have is the breast like this and you can slice it into pieces, easy to serve.

    >> you can make chicken sandwiches and have this nice slice. you'll improve the french fry . how are you going to do that?

    >> you can take some of those out.

    >> they look like we were getting overdone because we were talking about the chicken .

    >> they need double frying. in paris they used to double fry to get them come out perfectly. this recipe, two and a half pounds of potatoes and put them into cold oil.

    >> why wouldn't they get soggy?

    >> because when they're cold there's a lot of water in the fries and until the water comes out in terms of steam the oil can't get in. the fries have one third less oil in them and you use less oil for frying.

    >> you let it heat up then.

    >> cook for 20, 25 minutes and stir it around the last five minutes and get incredibly crispy french fries and you only need six cups.

    >> does it matter what oil you use?

    >> peanut oil is what we like. russets turn out tough. these are yukon gold .

    >> such great flavor. these are darned tasty. they are.

    >> that's a french method.

    >> the french always take credit.

    >> not chocolate chip cookies .

    >> that's a good old american cookie. what's in this good old american cookie?

    >> you feel better again.

    >> i do.

    >> let's sing "oklahoma" everybody. red, white and blue

    >> how'd you make this in.

    >> tollhouse cookie, 1939 , they put it on the back of the bag. there's a trick. we melt the butter and with the sugar gives it a nice caramel, chewy texture. we browned the butter. one day we stepped aside the butter got overcooked braun so you get this caramel flavor to it and a nice chewiness on the inside.

    >> i'll be the judge of that.

    >> i guess you -- tough. and?

    >> it's chewier. it's got kind of a -- mmm.

    >> this is like " american idol ."

    >> i would say. i would say absolutely. give it to me. come on, give me five.

    >> all right.

    >> fantastic. can i talk with my mouth full? wonderful. by the way the book is called "cook's illustrated" just come

TODAY recipes
updated 10/14/2011 9:22:34 AM ET 2011-10-14T13:22:34

Recipe: French chicken in a pot

Ingredients
  • 1 (4 1/2- to 5 pound) whole chicken, giblets discarded
  • Salt and pepper
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1 small onion, chopped medium
  • 1 small celery rib, chopped medium
  • 6 garlic cloves, peeled
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1sprig fresh rosemary (optional)
  • 1/2 to 1 teaspoon lemon juice
Preparation

Adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat oven to 250 degrees F. Pat chicken dry with paper towels, tuck wings behind back, and season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium heat until just smoking. Add chicken breast side down; scatter onion, celery, garlic, bay leaf, and rosemary sprig, if using, around chicken. Cook until breast is lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Using wooden spoon inserted into cavity of bird, flip chicken breast side up and cook until chicken and vegetables are well browned, 6 to 8 minutes.

Off heat, place large sheet of aluminum foil over pot and cover tightly with lid. Transfer pot to oven and cook chicken until breast registers 160 degrees and thighs register 175 degrees, 1 hour 20 minutes to 1 hour 50 minutes.

Transfer chicken to carving board, tent with foil, and let rest for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, strain chicken juices from pot through fine-mesh strainer into fat separator, pressing on solids to extract liquid; discard solids. Let juices settle for 5 minutes, then pour into saucepan and set over low heat. Carve chicken, adding any accumulated juices to saucepan. Season with lemon juice, salt, and pepper to taste. Serve chicken, passing sauce separately.

Tips

You will need at least a 6 quart Dutch oven with a tight-fitting lid for this recipe. If you choose not to serve the skin with the chicken, simply remove it before carving. The amount of jus will vary depending on the size of the chicken; season it with about 1/4 teaspoon lemon juice for every 1/4 cup.

Serving Size

Serves 4

Recipe: Easier french fries

Ingredients
  • 2 1/2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, dried, sides squared off, and cut lengthwise into 1/4 inch-thick fries
  • 6 cups peanut oil
  • 4 tablespoons bacon fat, strained (optional)
  • Kosher salt
Preparation

Set wire rack in rimmed baking sheet, line rack with triple layer of paper towels, and set aside. Combine potatoes, oil, and bacon fat, if using, in Dutch oven. Cook over high heat until oil has reached rolling boil, about 5 minutes. Continue to cook, without stirring, until potatoes are limp but exteriors are beginning to firm, about 15 minutes.

Using tongs, stir potatoes, gently scraping up any that stick, and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until golden and crisp, 5 to 10 minutes longer. Using skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer fries to prepared wire rack. Season with salt and serve immediately.

Tips

Flavoring the oil with a few tablespoons bacon fat gives the fries a mild, meaty flavor, but omitting it will not affect the final texture of the fries.

We prefer peanut oil for frying, but vegetable oil can be substituted. This recipe will not work with sweet potatoes or russets.

Serve with ketchup or a dipping sauce, if desired.

You will need at least a 6-quart Dutch oven for this recipe.

Serving Size

Serves 3 to 4

Recipe: Ultimate chocolate chip cookies

Ingredients
  • 1 3/4 cups (83/4 ounces) all-purpose flour
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
  • 14 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 3/4 cup packed (51/4 ounces) dark brown sugar
  • 1/2 cup (31/2 ounces) granulated sugar
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
  • 1 large egg plus 1 large yolk
  • 1 1/4 cups (71/2 ounces) semisweet chocolate chips or chunks
  • 3/4 cup pecans or walnuts, toasted and chopped (optional)
Preparation

Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. Whisk flour and baking soda together in medium bowl; set aside.

Melt 10 tablespoons butter in 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Continue cooking, swirling pan constantly, until butter is dark golden brown and has nutty aroma, 1 to 3 minutes. Transfer browned butter to large heatproof bowl. Add remaining 4 tablespoons butter and stir until completely melted.

Add brown sugar, granulated sugar, salt, and vanilla to melted butter; whisk until fully incorporated. Add egg and egg yolk; whisk until mixture is smooth with no sugar lumps remaining, about 30 seconds. Let mixture stand for 3 minutes, then whisk for 30 seconds. Repeat process of resting and whisking 2 more times until mixture is thick, smooth, and shiny. Using rubber spatula, stir in flour mixture until just combined, about 1 minute. Stir in chocolate chips and nuts, if using. Give dough final stir to ensure that no flour pockets remain and ingredients are evenly distributed.

Working with 3 tablespoons of dough at a time, roll into balls and place 2 inches apart on prepared baking sheets.

Bake 1 sheet at a time until cookies are golden brown and still puffy and edges have begun to set but centers are still soft, 10 to 14 minutes, rotating baking sheet halfway through baking. Transfer baking sheet to wire rack; let cookies cool to room temperature.

Tips

Avoid using a nonstick skillet to brown the butter; the dark color of the nonstick coating makes it difficult to gauge when the butter is sufficiently browned.

Use fresh, moist brown sugar, as hardened brown sugar will make the cookies too dry.

This recipe works with light brown sugar, but the cookies will be less full-flavored.

Serving Size

Makes about 16 large cookies

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