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updated 7/13/2011 10:23:17 AM ET 2011-07-13T14:23:17

What you don't know — or think you do know — about your skin can sap its youthful luster. One particularly dangerous misconception: After a certain point, the damage is done — and can't be erased. In reality, there are lots of simple, effective ways to minimize fine lines, erase brown spots, and firm up sagging skin. "If you stick to just a few basics, your skin can look younger longer than you thought possible," says Dennis Gross, MD, a dermatologist in New York City and founder of the Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare line. Here, experts separate fact from fiction and reveal the best ways to keep years off your face.

Myth: Skin should feel tight after washing
Truth:
If your skin doesn't feel fresh and supple, you're probably washing with a cleanser that's too harsh. Daily cleansing banishes blemish-causing bacteria and removes radiance robbers such as makeup, oil, and dead cells. However, harsh detergents and overwashing can increase the appearance of fine lines and can often trigger breakouts, too, as oil production kicks into overdrive to compensate for a lack of moisture. Switch to a creamy cleanser with hydrators such as glycerin as well as mild surfactants like sodium or disodium cocoyl glutamate or cocamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate (CPG), which are derived from coconut oil. "They all wash away makeup but restore moisture too," says Marianna Blyumin-Karasik, MD, a clinical instructor of dermatology at the University of Miami. Try Avalon Organics Lavender Renewal Facial Cleansing Gel ($12; drugstores) and Origins Never A Dull Moment Skin-Brightening Cleanser ($18.50; origins.com).

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Myth: Drugstore products aren't as good
Truth:
"Regardless of where they're sold, most anti-aging lines contain the same ingredients," says David Bank, MD, a dermatologist in Mount Kisco, NY. These include scientifically proven anti-agers such as retinoids, alpha hydroxy acids, peptides, and antioxidants (like vitamin C and green tea). To get the most bang for your buck, look for packaging designed to maintain a product's freshness and potency. For example, an airless pump keeps oxygen (and your fingers!) out of a cream, while an opaque coating around a bottle blocks sunlight. Another tip to boost effectiveness: Check the ingredient label to be sure the rejuvenators you want are listed high up — ideally, within the top 10.

Myth: Anti-agers make skin look worse than before
Truth:
Topical creams won't leave skin as red and blotchy as either of the big anti-aging guns — lasers or chemical peels. But key rejuvenators like retinoids, which speed cell turnover and stimulate collagen production, can be so irritating you may just want to give up. Don't!

These simple tricks will keep you from hoisting the white flag: First-timers should prep skin for 2 weeks with an antioxidant like green tea. Try June Jacobs Advanced Cell Repair Serum ($78; junejacobs.com). And consider opting for a milder OTC retinol instead of a stronger Rx version. Try Vichy Liftactiv Retinol Ha Night ($42; drugstores). Mix a pea-size amount of retinol with your face cream to help offset dryness, and apply it every second or third night. Skin still too dry? Build up tolerance for a few weeks by putting the cream on for 5 minutes every other night and then rinsing it off. As skin becomes acclimated, work up to full nightly applications.

Myth: After age 40, sunscreen is pointless
Truth:
By now, your skin has seen only about half its lifetime sun exposure. So don't put away the SPF — there's still plenty of time to ward off sun-induced aging. Bonus: Protecting your skin on a daily basis allows it to repair itself from past assaults. Surprisingly, most of the damage isn't from baking on the beach — it's the result of cumulative, incidental UV exposure from, say, a quick drive to the supermarket or a midday walk. Besides damaging skin directly, "UV rays trigger free radicals, destructive molecules that act like little darts, poking holes in skin's support structure that lead to lines and sagging," says Gross. The protection in a daily lotion with built-in sunscreen might not be enough, though. Even when the SPF is 30 or above, these formulas often lack adequate coverage against UVA rays, the main culprit behind skin aging. To fully safeguard your skin, wear a separate sunscreen over your face cream or choose a moisturizer with avobenzone, Mexoryl, or zinc oxide, the best UVA blockers. Two sunscreens that contain potent UVA protection and antioxidants: Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Liquid Sunblock Fluid SPF 55 ($12; drugstores) and La Roche-Posay Anthelios 45 Ultra Light Sunscreen Fluid ($34; CVS).

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Myth: If a product doesn't work quickly, move on
Truth: It's crucial to stick to a regimen long enough to see what works for your skin and what doesn't. "I suggest waiting 8 to 10 weeks before you abandon a product and try the next thing," says Mark G. Rubin, MD, an assistant professor of dermatology at the University of California, San Diego, and author of "Your Skin, Younger." And keep in mind that not everyone's skin will respond the same way to an anti-ager. "Most active ingredients do work on everyone — just to varying degrees," he says.

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Copyright© 2012 Rodale Inc.All rights reserved. No reproduction, transmission or display is permitted without the written permissions of Rodale Inc.

Video: 4 fixes for major makeup mistakes

  1. Closed captioning of: 4 fixes for major makeup mistakes

    >>> we're back with "today's beauty," from conceal toer to mangled mascara.

    >> here to give us the secrets to get us back on track is beauty editor at "prevention" magazine.

    >> after all this time we still make mistakes.

    >> yes. especially in the summer months. it's hot out and you cake on mascara and put too much lip gloss on.

    >> let's talk about concealer. too much caked on concealer.

    >> this is cheryl and so she uses concealer like a lot of women. they have the same concealer for everything, to cover pimples, to cover blemishes and under the eyes.

    >> yes, i see the arrows. they can settle into the fine lines and make you look older.

    >> show us the after.

    >> what you want to use is use a creamier concealer instead of the ones in the pot. they tend to be thicker.

    >> use a creamy one, not a powder?

    >> not a creamy concealer. this makeup forever has 14 shades. they a lot of women put on too much, and they just dab under the eyes and pat, pat, pat it in. don't wipe it. that just wipes off the makeup and then there's nothing left.

    >> pat, pat, pat, you in a minute.

    >> this is a before picture. red lips. some people love red lips. you have red lips on and they look great.

    >> the thing is if you do red and gloss then you have a lot going on.

    >> and the older you get, i think --

    >> it tends to settle in the fine lines. their show us lisa -- see how pretty that is? it's much softer. we treated the red with a gloss for a rosy gloss balm hybrid. it has spf-15 for the summer.

    >> even your lips need that.

    >> absolutely. it has shine, but not like the mirrorlike, tacky finish that has too much going on.

    >> you don't want to draw attention to just one thing because red lip, that's all you see.

    >> yeah. especially if -- it's much more youthful.

    >> you're right.

    >> our next issue that we have is runny mascara and let's like at mary lee before. that happens to me all of the time, but should you just get waterproof? is that the way to go?

    >> my thing about waterproof is it's a thicker formula and you load it on the lashes and it starts to drag down in the outer corners. we took an eye liner and wiggled in between the lashes to define the lash line naturally. so that gives you definition. and we have the mascara that is lengthening and darkening and creates tubes on your lashes.

    >> mally likes that.

    >> it's a much more youthful look.

    >> lastly, let's take a look at mary beth's before picture and tell us what she's doing wrong here.

    >> mary beth is doing what a lot of women do, they take the rhodeses, the bricky, and we wanted to show her that a bright blush isn't scary.

    >> i'm afraid of them.

    >> that looks great.

    >> it's very creamy and melts away, right?

    >> it's a cream blush. a lot of women take it in the hollow of the cheek, back and forth. we just dabbed it.

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